Manaslu, East Ridge and Northeast Face, and Tragedy. We had originally hoped to make a new route on Manaslu’s southwest face but in Kathmandu we were permitted by the Tourism Ministry to change to the east ridge, which had been unsuccessfully trie...
Tukuche. Three members of this Spanish Catalan team, Pere Giro, José María Jane and leader Lluis Gómez, reached the summit on October 4. They believe they were the first to ski a part of their ascent and descent of Tukuche. They skied from Camp I ...
Torre Innominata. On January 5, Argentine Carlos Domínguez de San Juan and I completed the second or third ascent of the first-ascent route of the Torre Innominata (Rafael; 2501 meters, 8205 feet) in 2½ days. We climbed ten mixed pitches and four ...
Mount Whitney, East Face Direct. In August 1974, Gary Colliver and I completed a new route on the east face of Mount Whitney. We started climbing in a crack system which starts to the left of the washboard. After seven pitches of F8 to F9 climbing...
Matterhorn: Despite the bad weather prevailing during the summer of 1931, or rather perhaps because of it, two outstanding climbs were effected on this peak, known far and wide for its distinctive form and its impression of inaccessibility. The tr...
The Mountain Rescue Council of Seattle is an extremely active group and does excellent work in rescue and education. They have worked out a well integrated rescue technique involving police, Coast Guard, and a volunteer group of mountaineers. They...
Koshi Toshi Attempt, Kunlun Mountains. An eight-member expedition under the leadership of Hisahiro Moro’oka attempted Koshi Toshi Mustagh (6699 meters, 21,979 feet). They had a difficult approach and got to Base Camp west of the peak at 3800 meter...
Maine, Mt. Katahdin—At 2:00 p.m. on April 5, 1954, while descending the Saddle Slide, unroped and without an ice ax, Ernest Oikelmus (21), a member of the Harvard Outing Club, lost a crampon. Apparently it was a failure of the strap which either b...
Glencoe Spire, South Face. This route, which lies on the western portion of the south face, was climbed first by William Buckingham and Bea Vogel on July 28. From the base of the headwall below the black dike and Glencoe Spire and just to the east...
Sani Pakhush. German Hubert Bleicher led five Germans who climbed Sani Pakhush (6885 meters, 22,590 feet). Details are lacking.
Schoolhouse, Windowsill. A window, beneath the large boulder in the notch just west of the Schoolhouse, was reached directly from the north by Robert Fenichel, Mary L. Denman, and Robert Hoguet, III, on August 12. The route used was the face just ...
Dzo Jongo. This lovely peak (6120 meters, 20,079 feet), which rises above the Markha valley in Zanskar, was climbed by Germans Frank Seubert and Ms. Birgit Rossberg on August 17. They followed the north ridge.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal
Goya Peak, first ascent. Our small multinational team of Jeremy Frimer (Canada), Sarah Hart (Canada), Michel van der Spek (The Netherlands) and I made two first ascents of alpine rock climbs in the Miyar Valley. We established base camp at the usu...
Nevado Tres Cruces, Various Ascents. A joint expedition by Bob Villarreal (USA), Fritz Radun (Germany) and Greg Horne (Canada) spent March 8 to 20 on this massif, climbing all three 6000-meter summits (first ascents in 1937 and 1973). The north su...
Graves Lake Dome, South Face and Spider Peak, North Face, Wind River Range. On July 29, after an invigorating 18-mile approach from the south, I completed a solo ascent of the Becky aid route on Graves Lake Dome (P 10818). Eliminating the aid on t...
STRANDED, FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXCEEDINGABILITIES, NO HARD HATWest Virginia, Seneca Rocks, Old Man’s RouteOn June 6, 1994, Alex Fraser (23) fell to his death at Seneca Rocks. Here is the account of his partner.We hiked up to the wall, p...
New Colorado Climbs, 1982. Despite the intense new-route activity of the last few years, climbers in the Boulder area continue to find first ascents on both new and established crags. In early spring, Alec Sharp and Matt Lavender climbed Victim of...
Narayan Parbat. A report from Naini Tal, also in July 1951, tells of a three-month journey by two Swiss mountaineers in the Badrinath area. Bad weather prevented exploration of many high peaks; but the two, who used no porters the entire time, suc...
Inspiration Peak, first winter ascent. On February 7 Forrest Murphy and I left the Goodell Creek trailhead early and, using snowshoes, made it to a camp midway up the Terror Glacier that afternoon. The unusually low snowpack helped make the approa...
Mount Foraker. The expedition of the Academic Research Team of Tokushima University was led by Takashi Watanabe. We made Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier on June 26. Camp I was placed at the foot of the icefall on June 28 and Camp II at 8500 on J...