Everest Southwest Face Attempt. A Korean expedition led by Park Young-Bae had hoped to climb Everest via the southwest face. On October 11, they reached their high point of 7770 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
Domelands, Bunded Cliffs, Stegosaurus Dome, Naked Lunch. In July, John Mattashed and I made a trip into the Banded Cliffs, a series of seven domes southwest of Columbia Dome. We climbed the dome second-most from the south, which we named Stegosaur...
Peak October, October Victory. In the Ak-Su Valley three Czech climbers—M. Holecek, D. Stastny, and O. Vasek—established a new route on the northwest face of peak October (3,805m). They called the ascent October Victory, 8+/A4. The route was climb...
Annapurna I Attempt. An expedition of the Japanese Alpine Club’s Shinano section was led by Shaigeki Tsukamoto and Yukahisa Asawa. The 11-man group was attempting a new northeast-buttress route and then switched to the British Army route of 1970. ...
Rock Tower, Kedarnath. On August 27, Stefano Righetti and Maurizio Giordani got to the summit of the Rock Tower, a granite pillar of 6150 meters (20,177 feet), which lies south of Kedarnath Peak. It was attempted in 1989 by Righetti, GianCarlo Gra...
Human Performance Physiology and Environmental Medicine at Terrestrial Extremes. Kent B. Pandolf, Michael N. Sawka and Richard R. Gonzalez, editors. Benchmark Press, Indianapolis, 1988. 637 pages, charts, tables. $40.00.In 1986, the Army Research ...
FALL ON ROCK, PITONS PULLED OUT Illinois, Mississippi Palisades State ParkOn August 29, 1993, Ted Rogers (25) fell 30 feet from a climb he was on. The pins he had placed “gave way.” The extent of his injuries is not known. (Source: From an article...
A French Expedition, sponsored by the G. H. M. and the C. A. F., was also in the Caucasus this past summer. It was composed of Raymond Gaché, Jacques Lagarde, Robert Tézenas du Montcel, and Lucien Valluet. They arrived in Naltshik on August 8th an...
Shisha Pangma. An international commercial expedition organized by Hauser Excursionen and led by Yugoslav Bogdan Brakus climbed the normal northeast route on Shisha Pangma. For better acclimatization, the 16-member group first drove from Kathmandu...
Kanta Gaton (5,910m). A French family expedition made the first known ascent of this small peak in the southeast corner of the Kanjiroba Himal, on the ridge immediately southwest of 6,005m Norbu Kang (climbed from the north in 2003 and 2008). The ...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, South Fork of Cascade Canyon— Fred A. Shire, Jr. (23), of Long Beach, Cal., had told his parents that he was going to hike to Lake Solitude via Cascade Canyon and left at 5 A.M. on July 2 to do so. He had planne...
FALL—AFTER CLIMB COMPLETED—California, Tahquitz. Stan Klein, a climber from Loma Prieta Chap. RCS who has moved to LA, was making his second climb of the day with Jim McPherson. Stan led the last pitch of Graham Crackers. He completed the move at ...
Mount Triumph, North Face. In early August Pete Doorish and I climbed the Central North Buttress, of Mount Triumph. From the toe of the buttress (5000 feet), ascend steep rock to where buttress becomes a sharp arête. Continue on the solid rock of ...
FALLING ROCK—PULLING RAPPEL ROPE DOWN, POOR POSITIONBritish Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, Snowpatch SpireIn August, a party of three climbers had completed the final rappel after climbing the Kraus-McCarthy route on Snowpatch Spire, a...
Changabang, north face, attempt. Andreas Amons, Cas van de Gevel, Melvin Redeker, and I tried to climb 6,864m Changabang by its north face in the autumn. Arriving at base camp on August 25, we spent the first 12 days acclimatizing and load carryin...
Lamchir and Nanda Kini. Both of these peaks have been climbed by National Outdoor Leadership School courses. Lamchir was first climbed in 1991 and subsequently in the fall of 1993 and on May 25, 1994. The true summit is 5662 meters (18,576 feet) b...
Cerro Torre, Compressor Route, and Clarification. On January 29 and 30, 1996, Charlie Fowler and I climbed the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, attaining the base of the summit mushroom at 9:30 p.m. in dead calm but in cloud. Charlie and I elected...
A Blessing for Climbers and Their Equipment. A translation of the Benedictio Instrumentorum ad Montes Conscendendos which the late Pope Pius XI approved and had inserted in the Rituale Romanum has been received from our member Anderson Bakewell, S...
Hot Wheels Tower, Funny Car. In the Windows area of Arches National Park, Brad Bond rope-soloed the first ascent of Funny Car (5.8 A2+) on the Hot Wheels Tower. Bond: “Linus Platt acted as technical advisor during the ascent.” The climb is 100 fee...
A.A.C., New York Section. Why do people join organizations like the American Alpine Club? Certainly one of the main motives is to expand one’s circle of climbing friends and partners and to share the fellowship of like-minded people. Facilitating ...