P 8849, Talkeetna Mountains. On May 2 Chuck McLaughlin and I found ourselves on an unnamed glacier northwest of P 8849, the highest point of the Talkeetna Mountains (“Sentry Peak”). Pilot Bob Wood’s disappearance had severed our connection with ci...
Chogolisa Southwest. There are two summits southwest of Chogolisa which rise to about 7000 meters or 22,966 feet. The western-most one, about two miles from Chogolisa, was climbed by a 13-man Japanese party led by Hiroaki Akiyama by its northwest ...
Churup, Northwest Face, Primorska Smer. On July 11, Simon Markocic, Vasja Kosuta, Borut Golja and I established a new route, Primorska Smer (V+ A0 80°, 500m), on the northwest face of Churup (5493m). We started at 2 a.m. from a base camp at the la...
Peruvian National Andean Climbing Convention. This convention took place in Huaraz in late July and early August. It was officially sponsored by the Ministry of Public Education and organized by the head of the Sección de Andinismo, Physical Educa...
Shah-i-Anjuman (Peak X). The Ogaki expedition was headed by Yoshihiko Muto and consisted of Sakio Takagi, Yasua Takagi, Seiyo Hayashi, Osamu Sakuma, Susumu Inukai, Nobuo Kawai, Dr. Kosei Segawa and Yoshio Ando. After crossing the Anjuman Pass to A...
Hindu Raj. The city of Teramo expedition had nine members: Carlo A. Pinelli, leader; Luigi Barbuscia, Bruno Marsili, Enzo Camilleri, Pietro Guj, Franco Cravino, Mario Popriore, Mario Mancini and Luigi Muzii. They climbed in the Hindu Raj on the bo...
Boulder Canyon. In the Wall Of Winter Warmth area on the Berlin Wall, right of The Iron Curtain, Bob Horan climbed Blitzkrieg (80 feet 5.11d), a steep face and overhang. The climb had been pre-protected by Dan Hare. On Blob Rock, Harrison Dekker t...
Various ascents and attempts. In May 2002 Tim Connelly and I guided an American Alpine Institute group in the St. Elias Range.Paul Claus of Ultima Thule flew us to an unnamed glacier cirque south of the Goat Creek Glacier and north of the Bagley I...
Suganbashi, East Face. Sixth place in the Russian Climbing Championships was the team from North Osetin (S. Egorini, leader, I. Afanacev, V. Ivanov) which climbed the right side of the east face of Suganbashi (6A) in the Suran range of the Caucuse...
Cayambe, Cordillera Oriental. Four local university students, N. Dueñas, A. Holguín, S. Rivadeneira and R. Sáenz made an ascent of Nevado Cayambe (18,993 feet) via the Punta Jarrín on March 20. Four days later, the ascent was repeated by F. Chirib...
Mount Harrison. On July 12 my brother David and I were flown onto the Donjek Glacier. We spent the next 36 days at and above our Base Camp (10,200 feet) a half mile west-southwest of the Walsh Col and eight miles south-southeast of Mount Steele. D...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, FAILURE OF NUTWest Virginia, Seneca RocksOn June 5, 1983, Brian Garrity was leading out on the first pitch of Conn’s East (5.4) when he got off route and found himself on much harder rock, somewhere in the vi...
Wisconsin Hoofers Mountaineers. The influx of a large number of new people made for numerous and varied climbing activities in 1961. L. Fowler was a member of the group that made the first ascent of the Northeast (Pioneer) Ridge of Mount McKinley....
Qomolungma (Everest) Reconnaissance. Our objective during April was to take stock of the technical and material problems we would have to solve for the expedition of our military high-mountain group to Qomolungma (Everest) in the spring of 1981 an...
Slesova, Fiamma d’Oriente, Second Ascent. Three weeks after the establishment of the Fiamma d’Oriente by an Italian group (see above), the route was repeated by I. Pekhterev (leader), D. Vlaznev, I. Vlaznev, V. Kazartsev and V. Lavrenenko in six a...
Fabulous Destinations, by John Nicholls Booth, xii+239 pages.New York: Macmillan, 1950. Price, $3.50.Fabulous Destinations describes the post-war wanderings of an amazing man: John Nicholls Booth is a skilled journalist, a nationally known magicia...
Aniversario, Hampaturi Range. Aniversario (c. 17,250 feet), the northernmost peak of the Hampaturi range, falls off steeply on the north and east into the Yungas, while the southern and western sides, separated from the other peaks in the range by...
Cerro Mano del Diablo, 1987. On January 18, 1987, French climbers Bertrand Doligez and Jean-Louis Hourcadette made the first ascent of Cerro Mano del Diablo in the Balmaceda group in southern Patagonia. They approached from Puerto Natales in a coa...
FALL ON ROCK, WEATHERNew Hampshire, Owl’s Head CliffOn May 12, 1985, the New Hampshire MRS responded to a call for a rescue of a fallen climber on Owl’s Head Cliff. They arrived and after a four hour search in the rain, were not able to find the v...
Le Ande by Mario Fantin. Milano: Club Alpino Italiano, 1979. 142 pages of Italian text, 69 black-and-white photographs, 53 maps.Les Andes du Pérou, au coeur de la Cordillère Blanche by Nicolas Jaeger, Paris: Denoël, 1979. 172 pages in French, nume...