California, East Central portion of Yosemite National Park—On March 22nd, Bart Hooley, Max Allen, Bill Pope, Mike Roberts, Margaret Mayer, and Lenore Lamb (all 21), departed from June Lake on a ski tour over the Sierra crest and down into Yosemite...

AVALANCHE— Colorado, Mt. Ypsilon. Two climbers were injured in an avalanche in the “Y” Couloir on July 4. No other details available, but reported here because of an avalanche in the same place at the same time in 1976. (Source: Alpine Rescue Team...

Khan Tengri Tragedy. On July 23, a number of teams occupied camp in the 6000-meter col between Pik Chapayeva and Khan Tengri: Ukrainians, Russians, Poles, Kazakhs, Hungarians, Koreans, Japanese. A severe snowstorm began. At 4:45 A.M. on July 25, a...

Siulá, East Face. Our team consisted of Dr. Kurt Schoisswohl, Mario Blumenthaler, Michl Grüner and me. Our objective was a direct ascent of the east face of Siulá Grande. (Apparently this was different from the Catalonian route of 1963.—Editor.) F...

Champs Ely sees Glacier, Various Ascents. The British Tangent East Greenland Expedition comprising Paul Walker, Rod Pashley, Jim McLuckie, John Starbuck, Phil Lightfoot, Glenn Morris, Peter Baillie, Peter Watson, Sandy Gregson and Jim Gregson arri...

Middle Teton, Northeast Face. This climb by Royal Robbins and Jane Taylor on August 16 is perhaps the most difficult yet completed in the Tetons. It ascends the ledges and cracks at the corner of the north face and the east face of the summit bloc...

Fitz Roy and San Lorenzo, 1983. On January 15, 1983 the constant bad weather cleared, allowing two ascents of some importance. Slovaks led by Tibor Surka and including Michal Orolin, Vladimir Petrik, Zdenek Brabec and Robert Gálfy completed the fi...

Mount Owen, North Face. On August 15 Tobey Carmen, Eric Draper, and I climbed a probable new route (IV/V 5.9) on the north face of Mt. Owen. We began climbing a hundred feet or so to the west of the lowest point of rock on the north face. We belay...

Split Mountain, New Route. On the east side of Split Mountain are three major arêtes, the two right ones having been climbed by Galen Rowell and partners several years ago. Dean Hobbs and I climbed the farthest left one in September via over twent...

Spantik, South Ridge. The members of our party were Shigeru Nakamura, climbing leader, Dr. Takeshi Nonaka, Dr. Isao Satou, Masaharu Mikami, Shuetsu Yamamoto, Yoshiyuki Takenami and I as leader. We established the following camps on the unclimbed s...

Gates of Hell, South Side of Provo Canyon, 1985. This climb, done on November 27, 1985 by Thomas Koch and Bill Robins, ascends the major face west of the ice climb, Stairway to Heaven. Bush whacking and scree climbing from a parking lot a half mil...

Hiatus. Between California Falls and the High Sierra Camp is a large buttress on the north side of the valley, split by a single large dihedral. In September, TM Herbert, Joe Kelsey, and I headed for the cleft early in the morning, after a bivouac...

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF PROTECTIONNew York, ShawangunksA man (30) was leading the top pitch of Horseman (5.5) when he fell about 35 meters because all the protection he had placed pulled out. A fixed pin he had clipped into held, and this saved h...

Upernivik Island, West Greenland. A University of St. Andrews, Scotland, party returned to the mountainous island of Upernivik at 71°N in the Umanak region of west Greenland (A.A.J., 1968, 16:1, p. 184). Two months were spent climbing and explorin...

Crescent Tower. First ascent, August 22nd, 1938. E. Cromwell, Miss G. Engelhard. Via a broken rock ridge extending S. E. from the head of the large gully on the face of Crescent Spire (about 20 minutes).

A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The year 1967 saw our section’s membership grow from 68 to 84, probably the largest annual gain in recent years. The section served as host to the annual meeting and dinner in Berkeley. Francis P. Farquhar, who for y...

Makalu. The Mountaineering Union of Yugoslavia expedition was led by Ales Kunaver and comprised ten climbers, three scientists and one journalist. They attempted the unclimbed south face, placing Camp V at 25,750 feet on 27,825-foot Makalu. In ear...

Nilgiri South, Attempt. It was reported that Tadej Golob led a five-member Slovenian expedition that attempted the first ascent of the southwest ridge on Nilgiri South (6839m). The team followed a line up the south face to connect with the crest o...

Purbi Dunagiri Ascent and Tragedy. A 12-member team from Durgapur was led by Swapan Kumar Ghosh. After an approach from Manali, they set up Base Camp at 4400 meters on August 10. Debabrata Mukherjee and Nidhir Kumar Pal reached the summit (6489 me...

Kohe Khaen, Wakhan. The Medical School of Hiroshima University Expedition was led by Go Hirai and consisted of Isao Fujii, Katsuji Doishikawa, Hiroshi Yahata and Masakazu Yamazaki. They proceeded from Qala-i-Panja to Issik via Sust Bala and ascend...