Pigeon Spire, East Face, Bugaboos. Although a threatening overcast obscured the sun on the cold morning of August 16, I joined Layton Kor, who had been considering this route for several years, and together we climbed rapidly to the lower left cor...
Mt. Erydag, Northwest Face. A team of the Dagestan Republic Rescue Service, led by V. Sogokon and comprising A. Goriaev and U. Slobodeniuk, climbed the right side of the northwest face of Mt. Erydag (3925m) via the 1982 Mikhalov route (6A) from Se...
Yulong Shan. Phil Peralta-Ramos, John Warfield, Marty Gollery and I as leader and five trekkers headed for China’s Yunnan province in April. We threaded through pony carts, rotor-tiller machines, bicycles and honey wagons for two days from Kunming...
Tarke Kang. A German expedition led by Adi Welsch failed to climb Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome; 7193 meters, 23,599 feet) by its south ridge. They reached 5400 meters on October 18 and 21.Elizabeth Hawley
Yerupajá Sur, 1974. Spaniards Alfonso Arias, Miguel and Luis López, Eduardo Barroso, André Fernández, Emilio Torrico and Emilio García climbed Yerupajá Sur in late July, 1974.
Devban, second ascent? An Indo-Tibet Border Police Expedition led by Y.S. Sandhu made what was probably the first ascent of this 6,852m peak south east of Kamet since Frank Smythe climbed it in 1937, although in the meantime several false claims h...
Bhagirathi II. A Spanish expedition of eight was led by Conrad López. On June 12, López, Josep Lluis Sasot and Angel Casals reached the summit.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club
Dharamsura or White Sail, Lahoul. Karamjit Butalia and Parash Moni Das climbed this 21,148-foot peak in June. They were members of an expedition from the Hiking Club, St. Stephens College, Delhi, led by Ashok Bamzai.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Pumori Attempt. Hall Wendel, two Sherpas Indra and Nuru and I made an unsuccessful attempt to climb Pumori by the southeast face to the east ridge. We arrived at Base Camp on April 3 and the next day began fixing ropes toward Camp I. We establishe...
ICHIRO YOSHIZAWA 1903-1998Ichiro Yoshizawa, a member of The American Alpine Club and one of Japan’s most distinguished mountaineers and mountain scholars, died at the age of 95 in September. Mr. Yoshizawa led the first Japanese expedition to the A...
FALLING ROCK – ROCK CAME LOOSE, FALL ON ROCKWashington, North Cascades – Pickett Range, Mount TerrorSteph Abegg’s Narrative: The Picket Range is one of the most nigged areas of the North Cascades. Although the difficulty of the climbing is often m...
Mountaineering Dogs. In canine connotation, the St. Bernard, a small cask suspended from his neck, busily digging a bewildered traveller from the snow, is generally thought of when Alpine dogs are mentioned. Most of us recall childhood stories of ...
Pyramid Peak, North Face, First Winter Ascent. In early February, Lou Dawson, Michael Pokress and I made the first winter ascent of the north face of Pyramid. A previous attempt had been stopped by bad weather and high avalanche danger, but during...
Mount Harrison Smith, North Pillar. It was reported that Germans Kurt Albert, Stefan Glowacz, Gerd Heidorn and Leo Reitzner free climbed a 700-meter new route on Mount Harrison Smith, Fitzcarraldo (5.12b). The team took two weeks to bushwack its w...
FALL ON WET ROCK, NO HARD HAT New Hampshire, Whitehorse LedgeOn August 2, 1992, Steve Wickham (32) was about 600 feet up on “Wedge” when he fell. His rope was clipped through about six pieces of gear, with the final one being a 1 1/2 Friend which ...
Koh-e-Bandaka. The first Rumanian Hindu Kush expedition was made up of Valentin Garner, Ionel Coman, Anton Demeter and Zoltan Kovacs. On August 26 they climbed Koh-e-Bandaka (22,451 feet).Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub
Kang Kuru (6,344m). On April 16 Ted Hessler and I made the first ascent of Kang Kuru, the second highest summit in a remote group of mountains called the Jakriojagga Lek in West Mustang. We trekked from Jomson via Kagbeni and Shyangmochen to Ghami...
Iowa Mountaineers. The Club enjoyed an unusually active and successful year in 1959. Twenty-one week-end outings were sponsored including 10 instructional climbing outings to the Mississippi Palisades State Park in Illinois and to Devils Lake Stat...
Second Spire, First Ascent. On August 3, Rob Morgan and I made the first ascent of Second Spire in four pitches (5.7 R Al) from a base camp at Jefferson Lake in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness, Oregon. This is the second of several striking spires ...
Goodrich Pinnacle. Don Goodrich was killed while attempting the first ascent of the west face of Mount Conness, a peak in the high Sierra. As a tribute to him, an 800-foot exfoliation slab on Glacier Point Apron in Yosemite Valley was named "Goodr...