Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Mexico, Chihuahua, Basaseachic Waterfall National Park, Basaeachic Waterfall, Soy Caliente

Basaseachic Waterfall, Soy Caliente. Morgan Black, Aidan Oloman, and Sean Easton established Soy Caliente (5.11, Al, 9 pitches) ground-up over two weeks in November and December. Forty 3/8-inch bolts and 20 rivets were placed. Thirty meters were A...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Truce Group, Purcells

Truce Group, Purcells. On July 19 John Barton, Nick Dodge, Tom Ettinger, Gary Kirk, Mark Temple and I finally met at the end of a new logging road, 11 miles up Glacier Creek. After crashing through a landslide which had covered the last third of a...


Accident Reports ANAM
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington

New Hampshire, Mt. Washington. On 24 March Jeff Damp (21), Tom Davis (19), and Donn Stahlman (19) were climbing the Odel Gully in Huntington Ravine. Conditions were snowy and foggy and at a near white out. They climbed on firm ice and snow. After ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error—Failure to Equalize Ends of Rappel Rope, and Failure to Tie Knots in the End, California, Joshua Tree National Park, Solid Gold

FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR-FAILURE TO EQUALIZE ENDS OF RAPPEL ROPE, AND FAILURE TO TIE KNOTS IN THE ENDCalifornia, Joshua Tree National Park, Solid GoldOn February 8, Jay Fitzgerald (21) and Victor Guzik (21 were simul-rappel- ling off of the seco...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest, Winter Attempts

Everest, Winter Attempts. A team of six French and two Belgian climbers led by Eric Dossin attempted to climb the west ridge of Everest. South Koreans led by Oh In-Whan were on the South Col route. Strong winter winds kept both parties from climbi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Mexico, Parque Nacional Cascada de Basaseachic, El Gigante, Bernat Pudent

El Gigante, Bernat Pudent. Last summer we flew from Catalonia to Mexico. We had seen pictures of the impressive west face of El Gigante and our goal was to open a new route. Although June seemed too late to climb this sunny wall, we decided to try...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Bhrikuti Attempt

Bhrikuti Attempt. An expedition of nine French, a Nepali, a Sherpa and a Tamang were climbing on the Japanese route of the spring of 1982, the west ridge. On April 30, Jean-Yves Ferrand, Pierre Gaillot and Bruno Kriner got to 6250 meters but Ferra...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, P 20,370, Tons Valley

P 20,370, Tons Valley. This peak, west of Swagarohini, was attempted by a Dutagar expedition led by Amula Sen.Sohli S. Mehta, Himalayan Club


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineers

The Mountaineers. The 36th Annual Climbing Program in 1980 was one of coalition of philosophy for the club. Several questions which had arisen in previous years were formally answered with stated policy by the Climbing Committee.A reaffirmation of...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri Himal, Jannu, North Face, Attempt

Jannu, North Face, Attempt. We (Fyodorov, Grekov, Mariev, Chabaline, Tukhvatulin, Slepnyov and Raljabov) arrived in Kathmandu September 2 with the goal of climbing the north face of Jannu. By September 11, the first team members arrived at Base Ca...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Manirang I and II, Spiti

Manirang I and II, Spiti. With 40 paratroopers, I ran a training camp plus expedition in Spiti from August to October. We left the road near the 1000- year-old Tabo Monastery. Crossing the Spiti River to the western side, we walked up the Yangcho ...


Club Activities AAJ
The Colorado Mountain Club

The Colorado Mountain Club. The C.M.C. experienced a healthy growth rate in 1982, adding a thirteenth Colorado Group and conducting more than 2000 trips. Present membership totals over 7300.Our outings included a bicycle trip to Holland, a backpac...


Club Activities AAJ
Alaska Alpine Club

Alaska Alpine Club. The format of recent years was followed in 1971 with the continuation of weekly lunch meetings and monthly slide shows. These shows featured everything from caving through white- water expeditions in the Brooks Range to climbin...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Baruntse Attempt

Baruntse Attempt. German Hans Eitel unsuccessfully attempted to climb Baruntse by its southeast ridge. He apparently was solo. He reached a high point of 6500 meters on April 11.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, P 6872 (Serei Porkush)

P 6872 (Serei Porkush). English climbers Steve Roberts and Steve Pymmmade the first ascent of P 6872 (22,546 feet), possibly called Serei Porkush, in the Batura region, apparently at the western end of the Batura chain. The other members were Mart...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Namibia, Spitzkoppe, Summary

Spitzkoppe, summary. This stunning granite outcrop in central Namibia has some of Southern Africa’s finest climbing, with bouldering to 14-pitch trad and sport routes, and delicate face climbing to crazy cracks and chimneys. Spitzkoppe is located ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Ancohuma, 1971

Ancohuma, 1971. Karl-Otto Ambronn, Gernot Gröbl, Werner Kirsch, Klaus Moelter and I were in the Ancohuma-Illampu massif in July and August of 1971. Our objective was to reconnoiter Ancohuma and make the second ascent of the southwest face of Illam...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Sikkim, Chombu Attempt

Chombu Attempt. A six-man Japanese team from Toyo University, led by Kenshiro Ohtani, was the first foreign expedition allowed to enter this part of Sikkim since World War II. They unsuccessfully attempted Chombu (6362 meters, 20,872 feet) via the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall or Slip on Rock, Falling Rock, Failure to Follow Route, Washington, Mount Thompson

FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE Washington, Mount ThompsonOn September 24, 1989, Roberta Mohrholz (32) and Jalen Johansen (32) set out on what was to be a training hike and easy scramble up Mount Thompson. Roberta had l...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera de Vilcanota

Cordillera de Vilcanota. A British expedition consisting of John Jewell, Pat O’Donaghue, Ralph Whitling, and Colin Darbyshire left Sicuari May 19, 1956 to establish Base Camp three and a half days later, at 16,000 feet, just south of the Chimboya ...