South Watchtower, Cirque of the Towers. On July 22 Court Richards and I left camp on Lonesome Lake to climb the east edge of the south face of South Watchtower in seven hours. The first five leads were free climbing, at first on somewhat loose fla...

Tanraniyoc, Cordillera Central. Southwest of Huancayo, about 12 miles east of Yauyos, is a range of rock peaks and small glaciers that has received almost no mountaineering attention. In June Mike Stewart and I hiked in from Yauricocha on the nort...

Citadel, Nothing But Time. On September 2 Jimmy Haden and Michael Pennings climbed a new route on the north face of the Citadel. Their route, Nothing But Time (IV 5.10+) starts just right of the low point of the face and climbs the leftmost of thr...

Saliojla and Condortucco, Cordillera Vilcanota. We were struck by the worst weather in fifty years right at the beginning of our Vilcanota trip. Two horses died and we had to bring the ill wife of our doctor back to civilization under bad conditio...

Haydon Peak. Barbara Stitt and I reconnoitered the south side of Mount St. Elias in May and June. On June 4, along with the Austrians Hassler and Stüwe, we climbed Haydon Peak (3641 meters, 11,945 feet) via its north face from Haydon Col. We belie...

Dhaulagiri VII, North-Northeast Face. (This first-hand account supplements the notes written on page 304 by Elizabeth Hawley in last year’s Journal.) The Singapore Dhaulagiri VII Expedition, which I led, took place from September 26-October 27, 19...

Colonial Peak, New Route in Winter. On February 8 and 9, Marc Twight, John Stoddard, Monte Westlund, and I climbed a direct line on the north face of Colonial Peak. Having seen this face towering 2000 meters above the North Cascades Highway for ma...

DEHYDRATION, HEAT EXHAUSTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn October 11, 1983, John DeVries, a New Zealand climber, required rescue from El Capitan as a result of heat exhaustion. (Source: John Dill, SAR Ranger, Yosemite National Park)AnalysisPaul Au...

Bhagirathi I, South Ridge Attempt. An expedition from Tokyo failed to climb Bhagirathi by its south ridge. Base Camp was established at Nandanban at 14,450 feet on August 14; Camps I, II and III were at 15,250, 16,750 and 19,550 feet. On September...

Mount Waddington, First Winter Ascent. A1 Steck, Bill St. Lawrence, Les Wilson, Bob Cuthbert, Dr. Barry Hagen and I flew to the Tiedemann Glacier from Prince George on February 18. Even before the ski-equipped Otter plane had landed, we were pleas...

Alberta, Rockies, Jasper National Park. At 6:00 a.m. on April 9, Harvey Sloan (29) and his wife (22) began to climb to the North Face of Roche a Perdrix Mountain at the east park gate of Jasper National Park. They were both inexperienced, and had ...

Nanga Parbat Attempt. Although our expedition under the leadership of Jean-Pierre Frésafond arrived in Islamabad on April 8, we had to wait for two weeks until we could take the road constructed along the banks of the Indus by the Chinese. And the...

Salute the Mountains — 100 Walks in the Alps and Salute the Skier — 100 Ski Runs in the Alps, by W. Pause, translated from the German (Berg Heil and Ski Heil). London: George G. Harrap & Co. Ltd., 1962/1963. Each book 212 pages, 100 photograph...

Koa Rong IV. Our expedition comprised Lieutenant Colonel Richard Hardie, John James Farquharson, Graham Hall, Corporals Jeffrey Schuneman and Ian Clegg, Lieutenant Tom Beese, Sergeant Gareth Davies, Lance Corporal Anthony Dean and Troopers Ian All...

Mt. Temple, east-northeast buttress; Squashed Bones. This beautiful line ascends the buttress between the Aemmer Couloir and the Sphinx Face on the north side of Mt. Temple. It compares in quality with, and is only slightly more technical than, th...

Christina. Christina is the left side of Henly Quits exfoliation slab behind Camp 4. Dave Davis and I completed this climb in May. The first pitch (F10) is a 5 to 7-inch crack with poor protection which ends at a small ledge. The protection bolt o...

Mr. W. H. Paryski, of the Polish Alpine Club, has been a recent guest at the Club Rooms, where he has examined the very complete material on South America.

Jon Simms and I spent three-and-a-half days, over two weekends in August, establishing a 14-pitch route on the 600m east face of Snowpatch Spire. Tricky routefinding (hence the name Labyrinth) and crack-gardening kept us busy on the lower half t...

Climbing Days by Dorothy Pilley (Mrs. I. A. Richards). London: Secker &Warburg, 1965. xxviii and 352 pages, with 32 pages of plates and an introduction to the second revised edition. Price 42 s.All climbers will welcome this reissue of a mount...

Lamo Angdan. Four members of an Indian Army expedition led by Lieutenant Colonel Kuldip Singh climbed Lamo Angdan (5862 meters, 19,233 feet) on May 12. Those reaching the top were Captain S. Kanal, Naik Sukhdev Singh, Naik K. Radhakrishnan and Rad...