Many worthwhile rock climbs are found on the granite cliffs above Zongo Lake. Located at ca 4,800m, these can form part of an acclimatization program or provide relaxing days before or after a climb of Huayna Potosi?. There are around 30 older, tr...

The mountains immediately west of Torssuqatoq Sound were not explored until 1975, when a large and productive British expedition from St. Andrews University, led by Phil Gribbin, invaded the area. Its achievements should not be underestimated: Mem...

In May, Vladimir Belousov from Russia and Marina Kopteva, the accomplished big-wall climber from the Ukraine, made the first ascent of the east face of Kyajo Ri, a coveted objective that had seen off many parties since the peak was officially open...

Vyacheslav (Slava) Ivanov and I were really surprised to find such a beautiful mountain with an unclimbed face so close to Lukla. What a stroke of luck! However, at that time we knew nothing of its history. We planned a quick, three- to four-d...

Bijora Hiunchuli is a subsidiary summit on the northwest ridge of Kasi Dalpha (6,386m). The small snowy top is clearly visible from Jumla airport, and access is relatively simple. In 2009 Sonia Baillif and I explored the approach to base camp in t...

Janak (7,041m) was first attempted in 1998 by a British-Nepalese party that reached the upper Broken Glacier, climbed peaks to the south, and noted a potential line up a spur on the right side of the southwest face, leading to the southeast ridge ...

After having climbed Strate Himal on April 28 with Jean-René Talopp, (see report above), I set out for a solo climb. Leaving base camp (4,021m) on the 30th, I walked up the lateral moraine of the Chaudhabise Glacier and then east to reach the bott...

Formerly known as the Gabelhorn, Ghandarbha Chuli (a.k.a Gandharva Chuli) lies on the ridge connecting Annapurna III (7,553m) to Macchapuchhare (6,993m), nearer to the latter. Before 2013 there had been no official attempt. The peak could only be ...

Gaurishankar's twin summits were mistakenly considered by early explorers to be the highest in the world. For both Hindus and Buddhists, the peak has deep religious significance. To Hindus, Gauri, the name ascribed to the 7,010m south and lower to...

It is 4 a.m., –20°C, and I am awoken from my stuttered sleeping pattern at base camp (4,605m) with the call for morning tent tea. It is November 16, day 15 of our expedition to climb Chhubohe (pronounced Chub Chay) and other unclimbed peaks in the...

In November, Dave Chapman, Neil Warren, and I visited the remote Chandi Himal along the Nepal-Tibet border. Reaching base camp took five flights (ending at Simikot) and six days of trekking. The journey was certainly an adventure, not least dealin...

I was searching for an area in Nepal that is off the beaten track, not well known by regular tourists, yet still offers unclimbed peaks and faces. After two friends showed me photos of Rolwaling's mountains, I knew this was the place. Santiago Pad...

On October 30 two strong Nepalese mountaineers, Mingma Gyalje and Pema Tshering Sherpa, and I made the second ascent of Bamongo. This is a pointed summit on the long west ridge of Kang Nachugo (6,737m), first climbed in 2008 by David Gottlieb and ...

Silvestre Barrientos, Alfonso Gaston, Ferran Rodríguez, and I (Spain) planned to try Cholatse’s north face in the autumn. From October 2–16 we trekked in the Annapurna region and climbed Chuli Far East for acclimatization. We arrived in the Khumbu...

Officially brought onto the permitted list in 2002, Anidesh Chuli (formerly known as White Wave) had no recorded attempts until April and May. The New Zealand team comprised of Ben Dare, Andrei Dusschoten, Rob Frost, and Scott Scheele had planned ...

In early October, An Chi-young, Kim Young-mi, and I made the first known ascent of Amphu I, which lies between (and east of) the Amphu Lapcha (a.k.a. Amphu Labtse, a popular 5,780m trekkers' pass) and Baruntse North. While the official height (HMG...

During July and August, the three-member Spanish-Basque team of Txemari Andres, Vicente Castro, and Kepa Escribano added five new rock routes in the region of the Torssuqatoq Spires. Andres and Escribano flew to Narsarsuaq, where they met Castro i...

On June 24, John Dickey, Prairie Kearney, Lizzy Scully, and I arrived by small powerboat in Torssuqatoq Fjord. The surrounding scenery remained illusive, socked in, but the rain eased as we shuffled loads up the steep, tufty slope to base camp. Th...

With research indicating there had been no previous ascents of peaks immediately north and south of the Storefjord, seven members of the Eagle Ski Club visited this area, northeast of the commercial airport at Constable Pynt, in April. Hunters and...

From June into August, the Oxford West Greenland Expedition combined a major sailing voyage with adventurous climbing in the Ummannaq area, putting up five big new routes and a number of minor routes, including first ascents of two previously uncl...