Tsacra Grande Oeste, Tsacra Chico Norte, Rasac, Ninashanca, Yerupajá, Trapecio, Cordillera Huayhuash. Our group consisted of Frenchmen Nicolas Jaeger and photographer Philippe Charliat, Englishmen Brian Hall and me, and the Peruvian porter Alfonso...
Nevado de Atoroma, Jachacunocollo or Jacha Collo, Gigante Chico, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, and Other Peaks. Our expedition was made up of Heiko Metz, the Bolivian Jorge Morato, my wife Ria and me. We drove from La Paz via Patacamayo, Panduro and Cax...
Otis Peak, various new routes. On the south face of Otis Peak, just west of the Otis Flower Tower, we climbed what we think are a number of new routes. If you see the area, you will understand why it is hard to identify specific formations—there a...
Cerro Tupungato, Central Andes. Ignacio Morlans and Pedro Rosende made an ascent on January 17 of Cerro Tupungato (21,490 feet) via its classical route (northwest slopes) with very low temperatures.
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK-TWO INCIDENTSColorado, Black Canyon of the GunnisonOn June 17, Zach Alberts (20) fell while leading a climb of the 5.10+ Cruise route. Alberts was climbing about 10 feet above his last piece of protection when he lost his foot...
Mount Nesselrode, Northern Boundary Range. In August the first ascent of Mount Nesselrode (8100 feet) was made by a party including Aylmer Thompson, A. Clough, John Schuff, Heidi Goodwin, Simon Waldram, Lock and Lance Miller and me.Maynard M. Miller
White Needle, Southeast Ridge, Nun-Kun Group, 1979. Ewa Hara- simowicz, Krystyna Niederle and Andrzej Pelc established Base Camp on the Sapath Glacier at 14,100 feet and Camp I at 18,375 feet. On October 30 and November 1, 1979 they scaled a new r...
Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks. Layton Kor and I spent two days putting up five pitches on the Rainbow Wall, three of them free. The third has one bolt and later we freed this. Pitch 5 had some tricky nailing. We retreated to get more pins and bolts beca...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton. On 31 August, Denis W. Robinson (20) and three companions were climbing the Exum Ridge. Robinson was leading the “Friction Pitch.” As he reached for a handhold his shoulder dislocated. He was able t...
P 7024, Sia Group. Our expedition left Khapalu on May 29 and established Base Camp on the Kondus Glacier on June 3. Camp II was at 18,700 feet on the Sia La at 18,700 feet. P 7024 (23,048 feet) was some three miles north of the pass. Camps III and...
Volkskunde der Schweiz, by Richard Weiss. 436 pages, 10 plates and 314 other illustrations, with extensive notes and index. Erlenbach- Zürich: Eugen-Rentsch Verlag, 1946. Price, $7.20.If one does not possess the earlier work by D. Baud-Bovy, Peasa...
Bandaka. The Chuhoh University Expedition from Tokyo was led by Katsumasa Itakura; other members were Hiroshi Katayama, Kuniharu Ichikawa, Seiten Hirota, Keifu Odani and Yukinori Isobe. Ichikawa and Hirota made the sixth ascent of Bandaka (22,450 ...
Fitz Roy. An English expedition has climbed Fitz Roy by a new route, which ascended from the saddle between the French and American routes. After preparing the route in November, they lost 16 days to storm before climbing to the top on December 11...
Indian Mountain Division. Reports from Berne announce that two well-known Swiss officers will act as instructors for the Mountain Division of the Indian Army in Kashmir; also that the Deputy Chief of Staff of the Swiss Army has been invited to Ind...
Annapurna Dakshin Southwest Face Solo. Italian Luca Tessarin climbed solo the 2000-meter-high southwest face of Annapurna Dakshin by a new route which was mostly 50° to 55° ice with two short vertical sections and 100 meters of UIAA Grade III to I...
P 5600 and P 5100, Rizhun Gol, Hindu Raj. The Munich Chitral Expedition consisted of Walter and Barbel Pschorr, Wolfgang Dorn and Karl Landvogt. They were in the Ishporili Gol and the Rizhun Gol, a side valley of the Laspur valley. They climbed on...
Badham and P 3700. On June 13, Christopher Hammel, Mark Makela and I were flown to 2800 meters on the upper Donjek Glacier between Mounts Badham and Donjek. After an acclimatization ski around Donjek and a two-day storm, we made a quick trip up th...
Achtung Gams, by Walter Majer-Maschée. A picture-book for hunters and mountaineers. Small 4to., pp. 91, with 84 illustrations from photos by the author. Berlin: J. Neumann, 1939.Whatever evil befell humanity from the Austrian Anschluss, it was at ...
Colorado, Mt. Wilson—On July 3, 1955, Herbert Martin, unroped, was leading a climbing group on Mt. Wilson. At the time of the accident he was out of sight of the others, so it is not known whether he slipped or was struck by a rock. He fell about ...
Colorado, Eldorado Canyon—On October 17, Darryl Christensen (19), Raymond Jacquot (20), Keith Hull (21), and George Cardon (22), attempted a climb known as Red Guard Wall in Eldorado Canyon, 10 miles southwest of Boulder, Colorado. They crossed th...