The Ice Princess, Mt. Scott, and Various Descents. On February 28, 2001, Rick Armstrong, John Griber, Kris Erickson, Doug Stoup, and I sailed from Ushuaia, Argentina, across the treacherous Drake Passage on the Grigory Mikheev, a Russian icebreake...
Climbs on Mont Blanc, by Jacques and Tom de Lépiney, translated by Sidney Spencer. Pp. 179. Edward Arnold & Co., London, England, 1930. 10/6.The well-known intrepidity of the brothers de Lépiney is brilliantly, and withal, modestly exhibited i...
Colorado: (1) near Morrison. On 22 April 1950 Jack Scudder, Walter Wilkinson and E. D. Woodring, all of Denver, were climbing among the Turkey Creek rocks, 12 miles southwest of Morrison. Scudder and Wilkinson were demonstrating rock climbing tech...
Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951-68U.S.A.1959-68CAN.1969U.S.A.CAN.TerrainRock69251838Snow409453710River3000Unknown1200Ascent or DescentAscent543495613Descent50145625Unknown61420Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock38930475Failure of p...
Devil's Thumb SoloJonathan KrakauerAT the end of April, with a month’s food, a pile of alpine paraphernalia, and $200, I hitched a ride north out of the Seattle area on a salmon seiner that was short on crew. Five days out, we docked in soggy Pete...
RICHARD L. BURDSALL 1895-1953Richard L. Burdsall, son of Elwood and Louella M. Burdsall, was born at Purchase, New York, in 1895. After graduation from Swarthmore College in 1917 as a mechanical engineer, he served with the American Friends Servic...
Alberta, Mt. Yamnuska. On 2 May John Kula (22) and John Martin (29) began climbing the Redshirt Route of Mt. Yamnuska (rated II F6) in the morning. Martin had not climbed this route before, and John Kula had climbed only the first two pitches prev...
The West Face of HuantsánPeter Lehner, James Wuest and Brinton YoungDuring the summer of 1979, six of us from the Harvard Mountaineering Club accomplished the first ascent of the west face of the Nevado Huantsán in Peru. Huantsán, at 20,982 feet t...
Changi Tower North Peak, First Ascent. Changi Tower (ca. 5800m) (the actual height of Changi Tower was difficult to assess, firstly because of the poor-quality maps [all maps greater than 1:50,000 are classified as restricted military information]...
FALL ON ROCK, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Moose's Tooth, Ham and EggsOn May 11, a climber fell about 60 feet while climbing the “Ham and Eggs” route on the Moose’s Tooth. He sustained tibia/fibula fractures, with ankle and metatarsal dislocations...
1910. Mt. McKinley’s North PeakDee MolenaarAt first the reported ascent of Mt. McKinley’s North Peak by three miners from Fairbanks was dismissed as a tall tale from fertile boomtown imaginations. Eventually it was deemed one of the greatest feats...
A Summer in ZermattCharles S. HoustonFOR some time Dr. Graham Brown had urged on me the delights of the Pennine Alps, and it was more than coincidence that brought us there together last summer. After a pleasant trip to London, we rattled all nigh...
Fenriskjeften mountains, Ulvetanna, north face, and other ascents; Holte- dahl mountains, six first ascents. Stein-Ivar Gravdal, Trond Hilde, Ivar Tollefsen, and I visited the Orvin mountains in Queen Maud Land from November 2 through December 10....
Jongsang Peak, South Summit I, New Route and Tragedy. The expedition, organized by the Alpine Association of Slovenia (PZS), had planned to climb the unclimbed 7000-meter-plus Janak Chub, but though organization of the expedition was already in pr...
Mount Hubbard and Mount AlverstoneRobert H. BatesMOUNT Hubbard is one of the mighty peaks marking the boundary between Yukon Territory and Alaska. Though not the highest of the St. Elias Mountains, it is very prominent, and it commands superb view...
The Golden Age of Mountaineering is still with us on great, impressive faces in the Wind River Range. The 1,800-foot north face of Mount Hooker was one of the better-known, though not the only one of these unclimbed walls. After a week of climb...
A.A.C., Alaska Section. The year 1983 was another active one for Alaskan mountaineering. It began with more new ice climbs being found in the Valdez and Anchorage areas, and with Section members attempting winter ascents including Mounts Illiamna ...
Gordoghan Zom attempt. Our goal was to climb Buni Zom mountain (6,551m) in the Hindukush range of northwest Pakistan. The nearest access is from the village of Harchin, located about 120 km from Chitral, on the Gilgit road. Our expedition consiste...
In July I returned to Kyrgyzstan for the third time, my main goal being to explore more of the Torugart-too and in particular to push further along the Fergana range, an extension of the Torugart-too running northwest along the divide between the ...
Shivling West Summit. After establishing Base Camp at Tapovan on September 1, Dan Jenkins, Austin Weiss and I lazed about for nine days. On September 10, we hiked to the base of our route and bivouacked in a beautiful meadow. The next morning, we ...