Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error - No Knots on Ends of Rope, Lack of Communication Kentucky, Red River Gorge, Muir Valley

Late in the afternoon on October 6, a male climber (22), after cleaning the anchors on Rat Stew (5.10a), a 75-foot climb, fell approximately 60 feet after rappelling off the end of one of his rope strands. He suffered internal injuries, including ...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Overconfidence, Nut Pulled Out Kentucky, Red River Gorge, Pistol Ridge

On September 28 a male climber named Roro fell while climbing Way of the Peaceful Warrior (5.10a). He fell off the bouldery first section of the route, and his first placement (a No. 8 nut) behind a thin flake pulled. This section of the route is ...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inexperienced Belayer, Improper Use of a GriGri – No Helmet Kentucky, Muir Valley, The Boneyard

On April 20, a male lead climber (23) was put on belay by his partner (male, 19) with a brand-new Grigri. The belayer had never used a Grigri before. As the climber moved up the belayer squeezed the Grigri shut with his left hand while pulling out...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock Kentucky, Red River Gorge, Global Village

On May 13, I (Matt Queen, 32) was gearing up at the base of Father and Son (5.7) when a member of my party, climbing above me, dislodged a block weighing approximately 10 pounds while traversing between the anchors of Father and Son and the adjace...

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| Published 2013 | Author Matt Queen


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Carabiner Broke – Improperly Loaded Kentucky, Red River Gorge, The Flank Wall

On March 29 a climber on Mercy the Huff (5.12b) fell at the eighth bolt. This bolt is located at the lip of a little black “rooflet.” After clipping the bolt, the climber made a long move to a crimp, attempted to make another move, and fell. The b...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Attempting to Clip Bolt Kentucky, Muir Valley

On March 7 a male climber, about 20 years old, fell on lead while attempting to clip the first bolt and sustained a fractured ankle when he impacted the ground.Analysis Muir Valley provides loaner stick clips at no charge to its visitors. This cli...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Rockfall, Poor Position, Inadequate Equipment Colorado, San Juan Mountains, El Diente Peak

During the weekend of June 29-30, my son and I climbed the North Buttress Route (Class 3) on El Diente Peak (14,165 feet) and subsequently made the traverse to Mt. Wilson (14,252 feet). We had four experienced people in our party and were careful ...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Free Solo Climbing, Off Route Colorado, Montrose, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

On July 10 the body of Andrew M. Barnes (27) was found at the base of the Painted Wall below Serpent Point. Based on evidence found at the scene, and also from talking to his friends and climbing partners, investigators believe he was attempting t...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, Lack of Communication Colorado, Elk Mountains, Capitol Peak

On July 19 at 7 p.m., the Pitkin County Sheriff’s Office received the report of an overdue climber on Capitol Peak (14,130 feet). Climbing partners stated that after reaching the summit via the northeast ridge (which requires crossing the exposed,...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped Colorado, Elk Mountains, Thunder Pyramid

On June 23, Steve Gladbach (52), a highly experienced mountaineer, was reported missing by two companions who had summited Thunder Pyramid (13,932 feet) with him. Gladbach was downclimbing and was ahead of his partners when they realized he had no...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Cam Pulled Out Colorado, Staunton State Park

On September 29 a male fell while leading an unnamed route on Elk Creek Spires, on the north side of the park. His top piece of protection, a camming device, pulled out. He lost consciousness in the fall and suffered a fractured arm. Evacuation re...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection - Rappel Error Colorado, Clear Creek Canyon

On April 6 a male climber (62) was killed after falling from the top of Levada (5.8+), an 80-foot rock climb at the far west end of the Canal Zone crag. According to witnesses, he was off belay and standing on top of the route, and was beginning t...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded - Darkness, Inadequate Equipment Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Redgarden Wall

On August 15 at 1 a.m., Rocky Mountain Rescue Group, Rocky Mountain Fire, an American Medical Response ambulance, and the Boulder County Sheriff’s Office responded to Redgarden Wall due to a report of a stranded climber. Kyle Willis (27) and Ryan ...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Bouldering Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park

On May 11 a man (32) was bouldering Germ Free Adolescence (V5+) when he intentionally let go rather than attempt to downclimb or continue up. He fell about 10 feet straight onto a crash pad. Despite a spotter assisting his landing, the fall badly ...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park

On March 17 at 11:15 a.m., Boulder County Sheriff’s Office, Rocky Mountain Rescue, and Rocky Mountain Fire responded to Eldorado State Park on a report of a fallen climber. Rocky Mountain Fire and Rocky Mountain Rescue located the injured party, w...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded - Darkness, Inadequate Equipment Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park

About 6 p.m. on January 26, Tim Holm (22), Davis Gray (22), and Josh Jordan (21) became stranded on the fifth pitch of the Yellow Spur (5.10a) on Redgarden Wall. Rescuers received a call for assistance from another climber in the area, who reporte...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded - Weather, Inexperience Colorado, Boulder, First Flatiron

About 9:45 p.m. on June 28, the Boulder County Communications Center received a call from three climbers (two males, one female) stuck on the first pitch of Fandango (5.5) on the First Flatiron. Not long after that, an intense storm cell moved ove...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded - Rope Stuck, Darkness, Inadequate Clothing Colorado, Boulder, Third Flatiron

During the early evening of January 26, three climbers (two males, one female) became stranded while climbing the Standard Direct (5.2) on the East Face of the Third Flatiron. The group had decided to descend from partway up the route and was prep...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No Helmet Colorado, Boulder Canyon

On August 31 a woman (20) was seriously injured when she fell approximately 30 to 40 feet after a piece of gear pulled while she was climbing on the Happy Hour Crag. According to her belayer, she was somewhat run-out when she placed her third cam ...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inadequate Belay Colorado, Boulder Canyon

Late in the afternoon of August 22, two male climbers (both 24) fell approximately 70 feet while attempting the Spoils (5.12a/b) on Bell Buttress. The accident occurred after the leader rested on a piece of protection he had placed before the firs...

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| Published 2013