On October 19, Ted Wogan (22) and Climber 2 began climbing Chouinard’s Crack (5.9) late in the afternoon. Wogan placed one piece of protection and followed it with a second piece at 25 feet. He initially placed a cam but then, wanting to save the cam for later, replaced it with a hex. At around 30 feet, Wogan fell but was held by the hex. He did not inspect the hex as he climbed past it a second time, and when he fell again at 30 feet the piece failed to hold his fall. He believes that some of his fall was held by the rope, indicating the belay was as effective as possible. He fell to the ground and onto his back and suffered spinal fractures, rib fractures, a scapula fracture, lacerations, and pulmonary contusions. He was released after a three-day hospital stay.

ANALYSIS

It is generally beneficial to place numerous pieces in the first 15–30 feet of a pitch or above a ledge. Additionally, it is important to inspect gear after falling on it to ensure that it is still placed securely. It’s not known if Wogan extended the hex with a quickdraw or sling, which may help prevent a piece from being pulled out of position by the action of the rope. (Source: Matt Crawford, Deschutes County Search and Rescue.)

[Editor’s note: Another climber fell off Chouinard’s Crack earlier in 2014 and hit a ledge, injuring his ankle.]