Over two weeks in July a team of British climbers and film crew journeyed into Sarawak on Borneo to establish a new route in the Melinau Gorge and to document the wildlife we found there. Due to the number of people involved and the associated noi...
Beginning on November 21, Laurent Bibollet, Emmanuel Chance, Yann Delevaux, Paul Dudas, David Lacoste, and I, operating from the yacht Podorange, made the first traverse of the Seven Sisters of Fief, above Port Lockroy on Wiencke Island. The first...
There was a considerable increase in climbers in the Vinson Massif this season, with 207 people attempting Mt. Vinson (4,892m), and 187 of them reaching the summit.In the Heritage Range, staff and visitors at the Adventure Network International (A...
Hua Shan is the West Mountain (Xi Yue) of the Five Great Mountains (Wu Yue, the holy Taoist mountains) in Chinese traditional and religious custom. Cable cars and impressive "via ferrata" pathways lead to the various tops. Hua Shan has five peaks,...
In 2001 a glimpse of the Rassa Glacier during our expedition to the Arganglas Valley (AAJ 2002) indicated great potential for climbs and exploration. Due to security restrictions and a remote location, many mountains and valleys of the East Karako...
Hervé Barmasse (Italy) enchained the four major ridges of the Matterhorn (4,478m), solo, in 17 hours, climbing up the Furggen Direct, down the Hornli, up the Zmutt, and down the Lion. The March enchainment included the first winter solo of Furggen...
Antoine Avenas, Jonathan Isorad, and Hélias Millerioux climbed Le Reactor (1,000m, 26 roped pitches, ED+ 6b M7 WI5+ R) on the northwest face of Ailefroide Occidentale (3,954m) over two days in June. More info at Montagnes magazine.
Max Bonniot and Mathieu Maynadier climbed Eté Blizzard (ED- 4 M6+ A1 70°), with 470m of new terrain, on the left side of the north face of the Meije (3,984m). This was the start of a seven-day enchainment through the Écrins in August. More info at...
Les Droites (4,000m). In March, Jan Straka and Pavel Vrtik (Czech) put up Le Vol du Dragon (1,200m, M7+ A2) on the northeast face of Les Droites (4,000m), between the Czech Gully (1977) and Tournier Spur (1937), over four days. More info at Singin...
Luka Krajnc and Luka Lindic (Slovenia) completed the first free ascent of Rolling Stones (1,100m, Prochaska-Rutil-Schlechta-Svejda, 1979) on the Grandes Jorasses (4,208m) in March. The ascent took four days, and they graded the climb M8. Planet Mo...
Over two days in August, Andreas Klarstrom (Norway) and Adam Pustelnik (Poland) climbed a very difficult variation to Freya (Jasper-Jasper, 1998, 800m 7c A3+) on the Storpillaren, the central pillar on the north face of Vagakallen (942m). After 13...
On February 9, 2015, we completed a new route on the north face of Trollveggen (Troll Wall) in the Romsdal area. Katharsis (1,100m, 27 pitches, VI A4 M7) was climbed over 18 days (January 23–February 9), including two rest days during Hurricane Ol...
Gyao Kang (6,735m), the most northerly of the bigger peaks in the Lapche Kang Range, is a fine snowy summit that can be climbed in a day from a base camp to the north at 5,890m. The slope angles are such that it would be an agreeable peak to climb...
I had visited Alaska several times, but this time Junji Wada and I—“Team Wasabi”—had the extreme luxury of not seeing anyone during our seven-week stay on glacier (April 21–June 6). This was a real treat that gave us significant time to face each ...
Fred Beckey shifted conspicuously in his chair, looking over his shoulder as if someone were about to steal his most prized possession: Before me lay Beckey’s “Black Book,” a file of tattered photographs of unknown mountains scrawled with hand-dra...
It was only by chance that I teamed up with Jason Stuckey, a Fairbanks climber, an upcoming alpinist Angela VanWiemeersch, to climb the east face of Mt. Hayes (13,832’). I had met Jason a few seasons earlier on the remote Nabesna Road in interior ...
“Does everyone have a good feeling about this?” Scott said, before we descended south 2,000’ into the formidable Valley of Death of the Tokositna Glacier. Scott Adamson, Andy Knight, and I were hoping to climb a new route up the center of the west...
Christian Ledergerber, Silvan Schüpbach (both Swiss), and I planned to climb the striking 900m northeast face of the Shark's Tooth (1,555m) in the best possible style: by fair means, clean, and completely free. This proved to be a rather bold, com...
In the summer I made another Tilman-type sailing and climbing expedition withmy 10-meter boat Dodo's Delight. My crew and climbers were the “Wild Bunch” from 2010: Ben Ditto, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, and Sean Villanueva. In early July they jo...
On July 10, Sion Brocklehurst, Robert Durran, Pat Ingram, Simon Smith, and I were dropped at the head of Tasiilaq Fjord. We began the first of three arduous hauls up the Tasillaq Kuua (valley) to the foot of Fox Jaw Cirque, where climbing potentia...