Twelve years after traversing a major unnamed icefield east of Kingnait Fiord on Cumberland Peninsula (AAJ 2004), Louise Jarry and I returned to continue exploration of the region. Using local outfitter Joavie Alivaktuk, we left the village of Pan...
November 2014. Ian Welsted and I were gunning for the Hole (AAJ 2015), a natural arch in the middle of the north face of Mt. Lawrence Grassi, a prominent yet obscure wall above Canmore. We missed the break leading up to the route and instead found...
From July 19–20, Jason Ammerlaan, Tony McClane, and Paul McSorley climbed a new route up the northeast buttress of Mt. Louis (2,682m), to the right of the route Homage to the Spider (Auger-Bunyan, 1987). They completed the approach and climbed the...
The Leaning Towers are 50 miles south of the Bugaboos in the Purcell Wilderness Conservancy. They’re practically an untouched part of the world, and the quality of the granite and wilderness setting were the main allures for Jasmin Caton and me. O...
On February 14, Carl Dec (48), Morgan Lavery (33), and Billy Smallen (33) were enjoying unseasonably warm and sunny weather on the Standard Thumb route (III 5.7) on the Thumb formation. The three climbers were very experienced, each of them certif...
In 2013, Edwin Espinoza and I climbed the lower east summit (5,700m) of Nevado Tucarhuay (5,943m GPS). The main, western summit remained a challenge to me. Lionel Terray called this peak Pico Soray, and the locals call it Humantay, but on the Peru...
Nevado Palqay (5,422m) is a peak to the northeast of Salcantay (also spelled Salkantay) in the Cordillera Vilcabamba. Technically, it is the east-northeast ridge of Salcantay, which drops down to Palqay Pass and forms the peaks Chuyunco and Palqay...
The Cayangate massif lies 10km northeast of Ausangate in the Vilcanota Range, southeast of Cusco. This chain of five high peaks is aligned and numbered I–V, north to south, comprising a 4.5km-long ridge. The history of these peaks is confusing, du...
Huayna Ausangate is the name used for two different peaks on the western side of the Cordillera Vilcanota. One of them is a subpeak of Nevado Ausangate that is located two miles west of the main summit, along its west ridge, and has a height of 5,...
Nevado Pumahuanca (5,350m) is a quite accessible peak located between Halancoma and Chicon; however, it is a minor peak in the Cordillera Urubamba and does not have big pull as an objective. In fact, on Malcolm Slessers’ 1964 map of the area, this...
In late May and early June, Eleazar Blass, Quique Apallinario Villafan (both Peru), and Frank Nederhand (USA) established variations to existing routes on two peaks in the Cordillera Central. On Nevado Sullcón (5,650m) the group ascended a short v...
In July, Brandon Workman and I headed into Cathedral Provincial Park to climb the Deacon, a granite wall a few hundred yards from the USA-Canada border. We repeated a route on the Deacon and then set our sights on the 700’ east-facing cliff a few ...
In the summer of 1965, Bill Buckingham and Lew Surdam visited the southern Logan Mountains, making the first ascent of Mt. Nirvana (9,097’), the highest mountain in the Northwest Territories. (The mountain’s name is being officially changed to Thu...
Eamonn Walsh, Carl Diehl, and I spent approximately one month (mid-April to mid-May) in the northwestern pocket of the Lowell Glacier, within Kluane National Park. After flying in, we set up camp below the north side of the Weisshorn, with the sou...
On June 2, my brother Silvestro Franchini and I climbed a route on the rocky right side of the southwest face of Nevado Churup (5,495m, a.k.a. Tsurup), directly in line with the peak’s west shoulder and right of the typical snow/ ice route on the ...
In July, Chilean climbers Jimmy Mora and Francisco Rojas climbed a partial new route on the west face of Cayesh (5,720m). The duo began on July 18 from the Quebrada Quilcayhuanca. On July 20 the climbers spent the day at a high camp scoping the wa...
When I first saw a route overlay for the Prism in AAJ 2011, I wondered: Why had the obvious wide cracks snaking up the middle of the wall been ignored?As I dug out bushes and pounds of dirt from the beginning of a giant crack, I realized the other...
In 100 Favorite North American Climbs, Fred Beckey describes Vinland, a line he and Alan Bartlett climbed on the north aspect of Ericsson Crag, as “one of my finest in the Sierra.” (See also AAJ 1988.) This is quite a statement coming from the man...
The Bubbs Creek Wall is one many excellent formations found along the popular Rae Lakes Loop near Kings Canyon. After completing the first ascent of the Emperor in 2014 (AAJ 2015), this route became my own “mini Dawn Wall.” While not pushing the g...
Between October 30 and November 1, Daniel Jeffcoach, Brian Prince, and I completed three new routes on the Tombstone Ridge, along the western boundary of Kings Canyon National Park. These formations are ca 9,000’, with the best known being the ...