STRANDEDNevada, Red Rock Canyon NCA, Black Velvet Canyon - Dream of Wild TurkeysOn November 26, two females became stuck between second and the top of the third pitch on Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a). They were stranded because their rope had lodg...
Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma, 1988. On page 283 of AAJ, 1989, it lists an ascent of Cho Oyu, by Noburu Yamada and three other Japanese on November 6, 1988. Actually there were two other Japanese: Teruo Saegusa and A. Yamamoto. Along with O. Shimuzu, ...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. The approach of the Felix Kuen Memorial Expedition, led by Dr. Karl Maria Herrligkoffer, was considerably complicated by their not being able to go along or cross the Karakoram Highway being built by the Chinese. Although the...
Kalanka, northeast face and central spur, Bushido; history. Kazuaki Amano, Fumitaka Ichimura, and Yusuke Sato made the first ascent since 1982 of 6,931m Kalanka. Their new 1,800m route, Bushido, started up the northeast face following a line attem...
Batura Muztagh. The Englishmen, Dr. Keith Warburton, leader, Harry Stephenson and Richard Knight and the Germans, Martin Günnel and Albert Hirschbichler, were last seen alive on June 23 in their Camp III (18,500 feet) in a difficult icefall above ...
Mount Stuart, Direct North Buttress. Fred Stanley and I made a variation of previous routes on this buttress, which consisted primarily of climbing head-on the 200-foot great gendarme high on the buttress. We used a crack system formed by a detach...
Picture Peak, Bishop Area. Rick Wheeler and I made a new route on Picture Peak above the Hungry Packer Lake basin, seven miles from Lake Sabrina. We decided to head for a hand-and-fist crack near the right center of the face. This runs parallel to...
Foraker, Dan Beard, The Rooster Comb. There were four successful expeditions on Mount Foraker, including the first guided ascent of the southeast ridge by John Rehmer and Jon Wells led by Gary Bocarde. Two other groups that also climbed the southe...
The Royal Geographical Society has awarded the Gill Memorial to Capt. F. Spencer Chapman, author of Helvellyn to Himalaya, for his exploration of high peaks in Sikkim and Tibet, in particular for his exploit in climbing Chomolhari on his way back ...
Everest Summer Attempts. The North Col attempt by John Roskelley and me was unsuccessful. Although healthy and well acclimatized, we never got a shot at the summit. The monsoon arrived late and was said to have been the worst in 40 years. Despite ...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Goat MountainOn September 14 M.D.L.C. was climbing with D. C. on a route called Twilight Zone when he was hit in the right hand by rockfall. His thumb was badly crushed and almost amputated. D. C. called Kanan...
Everest. The majority of notable events on worlds highest mountain took place on the Tibetan side. See that section of the Journal for more details.
Mount Owen, Southeast Face. It is surprising that there have been only two climbs on the face between the south ridge and the regular Koven couloir of Mount Owen, especially since this is the most accessible portion of the mountain. On August 18 A...
After 14 years of rock climbing, I have finally been moved to written comment.What prompted this? One of the most important events I have witnessed during my years of climbing, an event which was completed on February 4, 1971, when Royal Robbins a...
Makalu II or Kangshungtse. The five-member Japanese team from Chiba University, led by Hidekai Yoshinaga, was attempting the northwest ridge. Akira Murata and Sonam Sherpa reached 24,450 feet from Camp IV on this 25,066-foot peak on May 15, but th...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. The Annual Banquet for the Cascade Section was held at the Mountaineers’ Club Room on February 15, 1994 with guest speaker Seattle’s own Ed Viesturs, the only American to have climbed the three highest peaks of the world. ...
Huandoy Norte, North Face. Matt Kerns, Tom Hargis, Hal Tompkins and I left the Quebrada Parón for the north face of Huandoy Norte. Tompkins came down with a high fever at our bivouac at 19,000 feet. His condition did not improve after a day of res...
Mr. Bradford Washburn led a party of one other Harvard student, three Appalachian Mountain Club hut boys and a former Rainier guide to Alaska in an attempt on Mt. Fairweather this last summer. The expedition was unfortunate in being unable to effe...
Redwall Peak, East Face. Not far north of Grave Lake in the southern Wind River Range is an outstanding small peak with a spectacular 1000-foot east face, quite reddish in color. Layton Kor and I made its first ascent on September 6, climbing the ...
Keeler Needle, Australopithecus. Australopithecus was established by Ammon McNeely and Kevin Conti on October 9, 1999, after a week of establishing base camp and eight days on the wall. The VI A3+ route begins left of the Crimson Wall. They report...