In 2016, Johannes Steidl and I were in the Baltoro, our first expedition to Pakistan. During our stay we repeated all but the last few pitches of Sadu Masu (450, 6c) on Sadu Peak, PM Route (250m, 5.10+) on Little Trango (with a variant start to av...
Alexei Kurochkin, Konstantin Markevitch, and Dmitry Skotnikov (all from Russia) established a direct start to the Swiss route Claire de Lune on the southwest face of Trango Tower (6,250m), adding around 600m of difficult climbing.In 1999, Gabriel ...
Steve Swenson, Chris Wright, and I spent the summer close to the junction of the Kaberi and Kondus glaciers, near the border with India. While ultimately unsuccessful in our goal of climbing the east face of Link Sar (7,041m) due to bad weather, h...
Anton Kashevnik, Yegor Suzdaltsev, and Ivan Temerev (all from Russia) climbed new ground on the northwest face of Great Trango Tower in August. Starting on the 14th, using a portaledge, they began with a couple of new pitches immediately left of t...
Gasherbrum IV (7,925m) is perhaps the ne plus ultra of inaccessible mountain giants. The 18th-highest peak on the planet has no easy routes, has never been climbed in anything other than an epic, and has seen fewer pairs of feet (10) on its true s...
Ryo Masumoto and Yusuke Sato traveled to the Charakusa Valley with the goal of free climbing a big wall in capsule style. During acclimatization and reconnaissance, their attentions were drawn to the sheer 750m southeast face of Beatrice (ca 5,800...
On June 15 and 16, Ines Papert (Germany), Joseph Pfnür (Germany), Luka Lindič (Slovenia), and Paul McSorley (Canada) established Ruby Supernova, the second route up the Slanghoek Amphitheatre in the Du Toits Kloof area. The 13-pitch route is 520m ...
In the winter of 2017-’18, I spent two months in Colombia exploring different areas and climbing a few new lines with various partners. Since climbing has been banned in the popular El Cocuy National Park (see note below), climbers have been force...
On February 1, 2018, Dave Allfrey (USA), Kieran Brownie (Canada), and Paul McSorley (Canada) completed a route up the previously unclimbed northwest face of Cerro Pajarito, one of the Cerros de Mavecure (also spelled Mavicure) monoliths in Guainía...
In May, Max Álvarez and Diego Montaño climbed a probable new route on the northwest face of Itzaccihuatl (5,230m), Mexico’s third-highest peak. The climb involved two steep mixed pitches, followed by a stretch of alpine ice (AI3) leading to a glac...
On July 1, Diana Wendt and I were dropped off at Tasermiut Fjord. Our first couple of weeks in the area were rainy, and patience was tested while waiting out storms in camp. We used brief spells of dry weather to climb the lower half of War and Po...
In 1999 a Norwegian-Swedish team climbed the south ridge of Grundtvigskirken (1,977m), thinking they were making the first ascent. Although this route had been attempted before to around half height (most likely by the British military in 1978),...
THE BEST BEER in Kenya is served at a place called Sabache Camp, about 30km north of the infamous dusty frontier town of Archer’s Post. The camp is tucked into a lush valley on the northeast flank of Mt. Ololokwe and serves up ice-cold (sometimes ...
Sasha DiGiulian (USA) and Edu Marin (Spain) free climbed Mora Mora (700m, 8c) on the east face of Tsaranoro Atsimo. The route was established in 1999 by Francisco Blanco and Toti Valés and freed by Adam Ondra in 2010. DiGiulian and Marin spent mos...
Not previously reported in the AAJ, Zaza Be was established by Marc Gamio and Gérard Thomas (France) in June 2014 at 7c A0. The 500m, 14-pitch line stopped below the top of formation. Later in 2014, Mayan Gobat-Smith (New Zealand) and Ben Rueck (U...
Development of the quartzite crags in Morocco’s Anti-Atlas Mountains has continued at a steady pace during the last few winters, with several hundred mid-grade routes being added to crags across the Jebel el Kest and Jebel Taskra massifs. These ar...
In search of new projects, Alexander Huber and I were drawn to the deep and impressive Taghia Gorge, especially to the Tadrarate, a 500m wall of beautiful red limestone. We first visited the Taghia in October 2016. As always, Alexander was psyched...
In 2014 I climbed the south face of an unnamed peak on the east coast of Anvers Island, which I named Monte Samila (64°38´56”S, 63°12´59”W). It gave a 1,500m ascent of difficult climbing on ice and unstable snow (WI5). Afterward, I sailed south to...
In 2017 the focus for activists in the Canadian Rockies seemed to shift away from alpine routes toward ice and mixed cragging in the winter and new bolted rock routes in the summer. A striking exception—and by far the biggest news in alpine climbi...
Pete Graham and I have been climbing together in winter and on alpine terrain quite consistently for a few years. He was originally my mentor, but the relationship has grown into a healthy partnership, with both of us feeling able to push each oth...