Heritage Range, First Ascents
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains
Alex Brough, Ryan Burke, and Will Reno (USA), with ALE guide Eli Potter, made a number of ascents on the ridge between the Splettstoesser and Gowan glaciers in the northern Heritage Range, east of the Founders Peaks. After an initial attempt to reach the area by Twin Otter on January 2, 2024, the team traveled 85km north in 3.5 hours the next day aboard an ALE Sno-Cat, then established an intermediate camp on the southern side of the Anderson Massif. On January 4, they continued west on skis and established a camp at 79°14’S, 85°30’W on a plateau of the upper Splettstoesser Glacier. The next day they climbed the north-northwest ridge of Mt. Herrin (1,756m, 79°26’S, 85 ̊76’W), starting with a 40° snow slope followed by 4th-class scrambling along a mixed ridge, for a total gain of around 360m.
On January 6, the team climbed two small peaks nearby, mostly on skis. The first they named Wolverine Peak (1,497m, 79°13.36’S, 85°40.39’W), climbed via Red Dawn Ridge, rising 120m on 40° snow. The second was the Kraken (1,480m, 79°14.49’S, 85°37.27’W), climbed up its northern side for 210m, also at 40°. The next day they skied to the eastern side of a peak they had been calling the Shark’s Fin and climbed the north ridge on firm 45° snow to its 1,512m summit (79°14.71’S, 85°40.67’W). At the top, the team decided to continue along an attractive rock ridge for more than a kilometer to a prominent humped snow summit they named Moby Dick (1,558m, 79°15.17’S, 85°42.75’W), with the summit reached by a slope of 50° alpine ice.
On January 8 the team returned to the ALE camp at Union Glacier, and the following day Brough, Reno, and Potter climbed a new couloir route on Mt. Rossman, the popular 1,450m peak close to camp. Their ascent involved six pitches of 45°–50° snow and ice, plus some simul- climbing. The gully ended in a short, steep rock wall that the trio avoided by moving right over easier mixed ground to the summit. They named their route The Warriors’ Way.
— Damien Gildea, with information from Ryan Burke and Eli Potter