The large rock peak of Yinhaizi (5,388m, 29°52'25.77"N, 101°52’12.18”E) is located due north of Xiao Gongga and Melcyr Shan, but on the opposite side of the main Riwoche Valley. From the usual trekking route along the Riwoche, the mountain is hidden by foreground peaks. While climbing Reddomain, Chinese climber Hua Feng saw Yinhaizi and noted its broad south face. Later, he learned that the mountain had been attempted in 2008 from the southeast, but the party had given up at 5,050m due to lack of suitable equipment.

On September 10, Hua Feng, his wife, Sun Jing, and photographer Xia Ti arrived in Kangding, to the north of the range, and over two days of acclimatization they used a drone to pinpoint the best position for a camp below Yinhaizi’s south face. A good weather window was predicted from the 13th to the 15th, so they hiked toward the mountain and established a camp at 4,550m.

Next day, the 14th, they ascended scree to the foot of the broad south spur at 4,750m. Above rose three groove lines, and they chose the one on the left, first climbing three straightforward pitches (5.7/5.8) and then another eight pitches that were fairly sustained at around 5.10a/b, with a crux of 5.11a. They bivouacked on a scree ledge at 5,000m.

In the morning, two slabby pitches of 5.10b/c, followed by a couple of easier rope lengths, brought them to a snow patch where they were able to replenish their water supply. The seventh pitch that day was 5.11a. After that, they were hit by a hailstorm. Hua slipped twice on a pitch that in dry conditions would probably be 5.9. They bivouacked at 5,250m.

It snowed heavily that night, but the next day was better. The team progressed up wet, snowy rock in sunshine, making slow progress. After four pitches, with a crux of 5.11a, and four hours of climbing, they were on top.

To descend, the three chose to rappel straight down the southeast face. After 11 rappels to the scree, two hours of walking took them down to camp. The 600m route (800m of climbing or 25 pitches) was graded TD 5.11a 70°.

— Xia Zhongming, Germany