In mid-June, Maxim Popov and I climbed a new route in the center of the north face of Turgen (4,410m, 43.108036°N, 77.595769°E) at the far eastern end of the Ile-Alatau, around 20km east of the range’s highest peak, Talgar (4,973m). We spent two days approaching the mountain. Our 900m-high route followed an obvious gully slanting up from right to left. The 14 pitches of climbing on the main part of the route included eight pitches of ice up to 70° and some mixed ground near the top; the difficulties were up to AI3 M4. We reached the summit on June 22 and descended via the 2011 Scherbina-Vassiliev Route to the west. We believe ours was the third ascent of the mountain.

— Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Kazakhstan