Cuchilla Negra, East Face

Argentina, Central Andes, Cordón del Potrero Escondido
Author: Marcelo Scanu. Climb Year: 2022. Publication Year: 2023.

image_4In November 2022, Lisandro Arielovich, Federico Barberis, Glauco Muratti, and Martin Suso made the first ascent of the remote peak Cuchilla Negra (ca 5,130m, 33°01’07”S, 69°54’12”W) in the Cordón del Potrero Escondido. Muratti had attempted the peak twice in 2016, stopping 200m shy of the summit due to avalanche risk and tricky penitentes.

From Punta de Vacas, they hiked two days along the Río Blanco and Quebrada Potrero Escondido until reaching a 300m cliff, which they bypassed by a steep ravine (UIAA V). Above this, they made two more camps to reach the base of the peak. Their route began on low-angle snow slopes on the east side, followed by a 40°–50° couloir containing many penitentes. About 100m from the summit, they moved onto rock (UIAA III) to avoid a large cornice above the couloir. They graded their climb AD.

To start the descent, they made two rappels down the rock band. During the second rappel, they heard an explosion: Part of the cornice had collapsed. Luckily no one was hurt.

— Marcelo Scanu, Argentina



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