Cerro Tres Hermanos, North Face
Argentina, Central Andes
Cerro Tres Hermanos (4,751m, 32°43’55”S, 70°8’16”W) is located on the Chile-Argentina border and contains three summits: north (4,751m), central (4,595m), and south (4,274m). The north summit was first ascended from Chile in the 1960s by Hermann Angerstein, Bruno Daube, and Walter Stehr but, until now, it had no recorded routes on the Argentine side. [Editor’s Note: Previously unreported in the AAJ, in 2014, Fernando Martínez (Argentina) and partners climbed two new routes on the east face of the central summit: No Se Rían Estoy Sufriendo (500m, M4 R 60°), with Pablo Laumann, Willy Laumann, and Hernán Ortega, and Normales Nunca Fuimos (1,000m, AD M3 R 50°), with Ortega.]
In August 2022, Federico Barberis and Glauco Muratti made the first ascent of the north face of the north summit, climbing from the Argentine side. They departed Las Cuevas on August 11 in good weather. Calf-deep snow made them regret not having skis or snowshoes. They made their final camp at 3,900m after traversing tricky snow and mixed terrain. The route proper, up the north face, climbed a couloir for 350m on 40°–60° slopes with a short, final rock chimney (UIAA III) to the top. To descend, they downclimbed lower-angle slopes to the west to reach the lower half of their route.
— Marcelo Scanu, Argentina