Peak 5,324m, First Ascent via Southwest Face

China, Sichuan, Qionglai Shan, Siguniang National Park
Author: Xia Zhongming. Climb Year: 2022. Publication Year: 2023.

Peak 5,324m lies in the far western sector of the Siguniang massif, at 31°11’22.242”N, 102°41’58.26”E, and is reached via the infrequently visited Jiesi Valley. On December 15, Wang Yongpeng, Wu Yunhe, Xu Gang, and Yang Sheng made a four-hour approach from Xianghua village to a camp at 4,500m below the southwest face.

Easy ground took them to the start of their planned route at 4,800m. After three rock pitches (5.7/5.8), they reached a 30° snow slope. Above this, Wu and Yang climbed a snow gully on the left, while Wang and Xu followed rocky terrain to the right. They gathered on the loose, rocky west ridge above, then climbed a snow gully to the summit ridge. All four were on the summit by 4 p.m.

The route was graded PD 5.8 60°. The team made a direct descent of the face to the east of their route.

— Xia Zhongming, Germany



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