Pik Polkovaya, Piks Koksai East and West

Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Koksai Valley
Author: Michal Kleslo. Climb Year: 2022. Publication Year: 2023.

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In early July, Gabriel Beno, Lukas Kroker, and I acclimatized on Pik Legendarnaya Magnitka (4,550m), then traveled to the Koksai Valley, west of the Bor-Dobo border crossing into Tajikistan.
We hiked three hours south of the Pamir Highway to our first campsite and then to a high camp at 4,350m, just under a ramp leading up to a broad col (4,570m) on the northern ridge of Pik Polkovaya (5,097m, 39.3614427N, 73.2436875E).

On July 10 we reached the pass and continued up the northern ridge to the top of Polkovaya and then continued on to Piks Koksai East (5,340m) and Koksai West (5,356m). Ice pitches up to 50° required belaying on ice screw anchors. We returned the same way.

— Michal Kleslo, Czech Republic



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