Mt. Hooker, All Hooked Up
United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range
Jesse Huey and Matt Segal finished a three-year project on the north face of Mt. Hooker in August, freeing all of the pitches of All Hooked Up. They stitched together the beginning of a line in 2020, making two trips into the mountain at the height of COVID, one of them with Matty Hong. By the end of their second trip in the summer of 2021, they had forged a line to the top of the wall. The route shares the first pitch of Sendero Luminoso and Hook, Line, and Sinker, moves a bit left, and then climbs straight up between those two routes.
Huey and Segal established two variations to All Hooked Up: the Left Hook (5.13-) and the Right Hook (5.13+). The Left Hook shares two moderate pitches in the middle of the route with Hook, Line, and Sinker (1,800’, V 5.12, Magro-Wharton, 2014), while the Right Hook is completely independent of previously established routes after the first pitch.
During two trips in July and August 2022, the first with Kiff Alocer, they focused on freeing the 16-pitch lines.
For the first two days of their final redpoint attempt, Huey and Segal climbed ground-up on the Left Hook variation, freeing all of the crux pitches—including a stretch with four 5.12s and three 5.13s—in consecutive order and bivvying on the wall. Huey rappelled to their camp at the base for the second night, in order to spend time with family members who had made the long hike in. Segal intended to remain on the wall in hopes of completing
a continuous free ascent, but a powerful storm flipped his portaledge and forced him to retreat as well. On the third day, Huey and Segal rappelled in from the top and freed the handful of moderate pitches remaining on the Left Hook.
On one additional climbing day, they again rapped in from the top and Segal sent the crux pitch of the Right Hook variation. In total, Segal estimates that he and Huey spent approximately 50 days in the Mt. Hooker cirque to see the project through. Both versions of the route await a continuous free ascent.
— Michael Levy, AAJ, with information from Jesse Huey and Matt Segal