Callangate, northwest shoulder to north ridge; Chaupimayu, southwest face to south ridge; Screwdriver, southwest ridge

Peru, Cordillera Vilcanota, Cordillera Vilcabamba, Cordillera Carabaya
Author: Aaron Zimmeran. Climb Year: 2021. Publication Year: 2022.

During the 2021 season, I repeated two lesser-known routes and made one first ascent in Peru’s southern ranges.

On May 30, I made the fourth known ascent of Callangate (6,110m) in the Cordillera Vilcanota with Mecario Crispin (Peru). We followed a similar route to that of the 1960s first ascent, ascending a glacial ramp on the northwest face to the northwest shoulder and finishing on the north ridge.

On June 24, I soloed a prominent peak in the northernmost region of the Cordillera Vilcabamba. On my map, it is called Chaupimayu (5,330m), but previous ascent parties referred to it as Nevado Blanco. I ascended the southwest face to the south ridge to reach the summit. Mine was the fourth known ascent and possibly the first in about 50 years; I followed a similar route to previous parties.

On July 3, Derek Field, Giselle Field, and I climbed a new route on Screwdriver (5,543m) in the Cordillera Carabaya: a new line on the southwest ridge (330m, 5.7+ AI3 M4 80°). [Editor’s Note: Screwdriver had prior ascents via its northwest rib and face (see AAJ 1966 and AAJ 1968) and north ridge (see Alpine Journal 2008). Tragically, Giselle Field died in a rappelling accident on July 13 while the Fields were descending from the first known ascent of a previously unnamed rock tower they called Kawri Orcco (5,185m, Quechua for "Monster Peak), also in the Cordillera Carabaya. The two climbers have contributed numerous reports to this journal.]

       —  Aaron Zimmeran, USA



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