In August I led a team to the Kumtor area, where we climbed two summits in 2018 (see AAJ 2019). This time, we climbed the western top of the range’s highest mountain, Pik Skobelev (5,051m, 39°47’33”N, 72°37’01”E), by what might be a new route. We followed a glacier coming down from Skobelev’s north face and then up to the western shoulder, reached by a short, steep section with a bergschrund. From there we proceeded directly to the western top (4,986m) after a tiring ascent through fresh snow, with short sections of ice up to 35° (Russian 1B). We were thankful it had snowed every day for a week, because in dry weather the slope would be an ice shield and much more difficult.

From the western top you could follow the heavily corniced ridge to the main summit (perhaps two hours), but we did not try this. The team comprised myself leading Stanislav Cmiel, Marketa Rusniokova, Rostislav Slouf, Tomas Walach, and Lucie Zaklasnikova.

— Michal Kleslo, Czech Republic