On October 29, 2019, Adam Butterfield and I completed a likely new route on the northeast buttress of Axis Peak (7,550’), above Eightmile Lake in the Stuart Range, near our homes in Leavenworth. Arctic air had spread south into the region, and the Pacific Northwest experienced a rare window of time when ice formed anywhere there was previously water, but snow had yet to fall in the mountains. Many routes that often get covered by early season snow were in prime form throughout the range.

After two reconnaissance missions, we completed Arctic Axis (1,300’, WI4+ M4+ R). We found an enjoyable mix of ice, rock, and even a pitch of frozen-moss climbing in a chimney. Later in the season, this climb would be easier though still quite enjoyable, with a descent on snow rather than talus.

— Matt Primomo