In early June 2019, Ian Schwer, Juan Pablo Cano, and I (all Argentina) climbed a new route up the west face of Huamashraju (5,434m; 9°31'27.98"S, 77°23'5.32"W) to the left of El Chumita (see AAJ 2021). The west face consists of a 300m headwall made of good quality granite with a short snow slope above leading to the summit. This mountain is part of a group that is "not so high" and "not so far" from Huaraz. Thus, it has been climbed numerous times. However, a comprehensive topo does not exist, and the exact location of routes such as Matxinsalto or Directa Donodedo is vague (see Alpine Journal 2006 and AAJ 2006).

We repeated two routes and climbed one new route over three consecutive days. On day one, we repeated MK Route and Ian paraglided off the summit snow slopes with a 12.5m speed-flying wing. The second day, we climbed the Sims-Hanning Route (1998) and then rappelled the route without continuing to the summit (see AAJ 2005 for descriptions of these routes). On day three, we tried a new-looking line just right of the Sims-Hanning. Our route began with a small roof then climbed into a corner system that, sadly, is a bit dirty. After that, we passed another roof and a scary flake to reach good-quality slabs with little protection. Our route, Buen Día, Día (300m, 6a+) went all-free and onsight, and there is no fixed gear. We descended after reaching the summit ridge and rappelled the Sims-Hanning. 

During the season, Ian also flew from the summit of Ishinca and the summit plateau of Ranrapalca. With sadness, in early July, Juan Pablo and Ian both fell to their deaths on the south face of Caráz I. Loving memories remain.

-        Mati Korten, Argentina