Dragon Tooth, Southwest Face, Water Route
Russia, Siberia, Sayan Mountains, Ergaki Massif

There are now nine routes on the broad southwest face of Dragon Tooth (2,170m), a well-traveled peak of the Ergaki Massif, located at approximately 52°50'31.60"N, 93°26'5.21"E in the Western Sayan. The latest, which climbs the right side of the southwest face of the western tower, was put up on August 31 by the Krasnoyarsk team of Igor Loginov and Alexander Zhigalov. The pair left their high camp at 6 a.m., carrying spare clothing, food, water and a stove. They began climbing the face a little after 9 a.m., reached the top a little after 8 p.m., and regained camp a little after midnight. They belayed 12 pitches, of which five required aid (up to A2), to reach the west ridge. From there, the two scrambled and climbed for around one hour along the 400m crest to the summit. Their new line, Water Route (550m of elevation but 945m of climbing, 5B) is now the longest on the wall to reach the Dragon Tooth summit. The pair descended via the Zakharov Route (2B) on the west ridge, which is well marked.
Autumn in Ergaki normally comes with unpredictable weather. On the day of the climb, Loginov and Zhigalov experienced light rain and mist from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and a maximum temperature of 10°C. The climb follows a steep slab (average angle 66°) and is generally solid granite. However, on pitches nine through 11 there are large loose blocks that need extreme care.
– Information provided by Anna Piunova, Mountain.ru, Russia