Dolpo is considered a land for trekkers, not a destination for mountaineers. However, there are beautiful peaks: not necessarily all that high, but wild and remote. Gyaekochen (6,107m, 28°58'49.47"N, 83°10'51.57"E), the highest point of the small Gyaekochen Massif, has remained unknown, not even named on maps. It lies between the villages of Kakkot and Dho, due north of Putha Hiunchuli, and is not on the list of peaks authorized by the Ministry of Tourism. My objective was to document thoroughly its appeal and access, so that it might be opened to mountaineers.

On an expedition in 2018 we explored an approach to the north side of the massif, from the Tarap Khola to the west. We discovered a route up the mountain that is both elegant and reasonably straightforward, but bad visibility stopped us just 50m below the summit.

In the fall of 2019, we approached from Kakkot to the south, the idea being to open a new trekking route—the Gyaekochen Trek—from Kakkot to Dho over Gyaekochen Pass (5,318m). We made base camp at Ghadek Kharka (4,700m) to the southeast of the Gyaekochen Massif, then headed up toward the pass and camped at around 5,200m to the northeast of the three peaks that make up the massif: Gyaekochen, Dolpo Peak (6,075m), and Klang Himal (6,042m).

On November 2, Bernard Meurin (France) and Dhan Magyar (Nepal) reached the summit of Klang Himal (28°58'55.38"N,  83°11'35.80"E) via the northeast face. Deep, unconsolidated snow made the going difficult, and they were the only members of the team to succeed. The route led to a large plateau-like pass from which any of the three peaks could be ascended. The main summit of Gyaekochen is waiting for an official ascent—when it is opened.

For more information, see http://www.paulogrobel.com/gyaekochen-trek-itineraire/ and http://www.paulogrobel.com/les-balcons-de-tarakot/ and http://www.paulogrobel.com/gyaekochen/.

– Paulo Grobel, France