Vågakallen, Solbjørn, Himmertinden, Rulten, and Haveren: New Routes

Norway, Lofoten
Author: Luka Krajnc. Climb Year: 2018. Publication Year: 2020.

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Nora's Gully on the west face of Rulten.  See AAJ 2010 for other routes to the right on this face.  Luka Krajnc

In AAJ 2019, Chris Wright (USA) reported new routes on Stortinden and Brettviktinden climbed with Jon Bracey (U.K.) and Luka Krajnc (Slovenia), and we noted—without details—that these two had authored several other new routes in early 2018. Here, some additional information on those climbs.

On February 28, 2018, Bracey and Krajnc climbed Jebanje Jeza (700m, M7) on the northeast face of Vågakallen (942m, 68°11'19.00"N, 14°17'43.25"E) in southern Austvågøy. In the lower section this route follows a line similar to the 2001 Scottish Route (Benson-Robertson), left of the Storpillaren, but once the headwall is reached it climbs a thin line on the right to finish on the southeast top (816m). The climb took 12 hours.

On March 3 they traveled to Moskenesøy and climbed the obvious depression on the north face of the 740m north top of Solbjørn (742m, 67°58'59.99"N, 13°9'32.63"E), this peak rising more or less out of the sea above the Fjosdalen Tunnel on the E10 highway. The route was named Insured by the Mafia (600m, WI5) and took six hours.

On March 5 the two traveled to Himmeltindan (965m, 68°13'28.72"N,  13°35'38.70"E), the highest mountain on the island of Vestvågøy. On the north face of the northeast summit (883m), directly above the sea, they took eight hours to climb Anaconda (750m, M5+ AI4).

Two days later they climbed the west face to the 1,035m west top (68°17'57.52"N, 14°46'28.49"E) of Rulten (1,062m), northeast of Svolvaer on Austvågøy. They took five hours to complete Nora's Gully (M5 AI4) on the left side of the face. The line has been tried several times in the past, and this side of the mountain was used to make the historic first ascent in 1903 (Collie-Slingsby-Slingsby). Rulten is sometimes referred to as the finest mountain in all Lofoten.

Finally, in three hours on March 8, the pair climbed Happy Ending Gully (400m, AI4) on the east face of Haveren (808m, 68°17'52.60"N, 13°56'51.56"E), located on the north side of Vestvågøy. The route lies to the right of Shekina (AI7 M4), put up during the 2009 International Winter Meet by Norwegians Bjørn Eivind-Årtun and Sjur Nesheim.

Information provided by Luka Krajnc, Slovenia



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