Honboro Massif, Bondit Peak, Northeast Spur Attempt

Pakistan, Masherbrum Mountains
Author: Nathan Dahlberg. Climb Year: 2019. Publication Year: 2020.


Bondit Peak (a.k.a. Bondid, formerly Muntin) is a prominent mountain of a little less than 6,000m situated near the head of the Bondit Glacier at 35°20'29.06"N, 76°16'27.59"E. The Bondit Valley rises southwest from the Kande Valley, which in turn rises initially northwest from Kande in the Hushe Valley and leads eventually to the south side of Honboro (6,459m). Maps and satellite imagery of this region are poor, and there is very little other information available. Irena Mrak reported briefly on Bondit in AAJ 2010. (Mrak refers to it as Muntin Peak, but this name appears to have fallen out of use and no locals recognized it.)

Elliot Bowie, Kadin Vincent (both New Zealand), Diarmuid Murphy (Ireland), and I attempted the northeast spur of Bondit from a base camp at around 4,400m on the last green meadow and easy water source before the white ice of the lower Bondit Glacier. We reached this point reasonably acclimatized after trekking over the Gondogoro La from Askoli.

Our first attempt was via the icefall, which proved too heavily crevassed to cross. We than attempted to climb directly from the base of the north spur. While this may prove a feasible route, it is well-defended by numerous seracs; more than once these dropped small blocks on us.

After August 10, when it started raining on the exact day our local friend Muhammed Ibrahim had predicted, the already loose nature of the mountain altered drastically for the worse, and any further attempts became suicidal. We switched our attention to a minor unnamed peak of around 5,600m further west. Once again, serious avalanches, this time of rock as well as snow/ice, forced us to abandon the attempt. On both peaks our high point was around 5,300m.

On other days we explored part of the surrounding country, which offers several little known glaciers and superb unclimbed peaks, many of around 6,000m. Future parties would be wise to visit earlier; late June and July were recommended locally.

– Nathan Dahlberg, New Zealand

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