Blåtinden, East Face

Norway, Lyngen – Uløya Island
Author: Gosia Jurewicz and Jozek Soszynski. Climb Year: 2019. Publication Year: 2020.

On July 23 we completed the first rock route on the east face of Blåtinden (1,142m), which we named Uløya, Welcome to (360m, Norwegian VI+). Our ascent took seven hours, during which we used neither bolts nor pitons. The rock is sharp, shattered and loose in places, and big cams are useful.

Prior to this we climbed Arctandria (400m, A2+) on Blåmann (Kvaløya Island, Tromsø region) in 28 hours, and in late July Bongo Bar (400m, A3), also on Blåmann, in 29 hours. On August 3 and 4, in 37 hours, we climbed the 1,200m Norwegian Route on the Troll Wall in Romsdal at VII A0 (the crux pitch was climbed A0). The route is serious and dangerous because of unstable rock. [After giant rockfalls, summer ascents of this wall have become rare, particularly the Norwegian Route, which is considered very loose and scary in the upper part. The route was free climbed in 2008 by Ole Johan Saether and Sindre Saether at around VII or 5.11a].

– Gosia Jurewicz and Jozek Soszynski, Poland

North Face of Skjelettinden: Elsewhere on Uløya, Artur Paszczak and friends climbed the first rock route on the very steep north wall of Skjelettinden (952m). They zigzagged through overhanging sections at III /IV, then came back and tried to force a direct line, retreating when meeting blank slabs.

Media Gallery