American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
Black Diamond Logo

Charquini, Southeast Face, Le Chat

Bolivia, Cordillera Real

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Alexander von Ungern
  • Climb Year: 2019
  • Publication Year: 2020

Early on the morning of April 28, Davide Vitale and I drove into the valley of Pampalarama, then hiked toward the east face of Charquini (5,392m), crossing a col at 5,000m. We decided to try a line on the left side of the southeast face, well to the left of routes on the east face (see AAJ 2019 for a photo). It began with two hard pitches, the first probably 6b. At the end of the fourth pitch, Davide reached the crest of the south-southeast ridge on the left edge of the face. We continued by simul-climbing, and although the ground was rather easy, the leader was nervous about knocking loose rock on the second. From the summit we descended the glacier flowing north and reached the car in the middle of the afternoon. I called the route Le Chat, not only to keep the feline connection with most other route names on this side of the mountain, but also after a Belgian comic strip—Davide is a Belgian national and has a good sense of humor.

– Alexander von Ungern, Andean Ascents, Bolivia

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.

Photos and Topos Click photo to view full size and see caption