On May 18, under a full moon, Hari Mix (USA) and I left the intermediate camp at around 4,800m on the normal route from the west up Chachacomani (6,074m). We followed the normal route for a while, then left it to cross the col at around 5,850m between Jakoceri and Chachacomani. On the far side we downclimbed a little more than 100m to reach the base of the south face of Chachacomani. We roped up and simul-climbed until I crossed the bergschrund and set up a belay 20m above. Hari had a hard time crossing the bergschrund, as I had dug through the fresh snow on my own passage.

Once established on the face, we climbed five additional pitches in increasingly steep terrain. I recall the crux being exiting the runnel we were in at an almost vertical section, on loose snow and less than firm granite. Above, the face gradually became less steep and we finally topped out 20m left of the summit.

The south face of Chachacomani is very seldom done, and it may be that previous parties chose a different runnel than we did. More consolidated snow and underlying ice would have made the climb easier and safer, but then crevasses (and the bergschrund) on the glacier approach might not be crossable. [Editor’s note: Most ascents of the south face, including the original ascent of the mountain in 1947, have followed lines much farther left, which now sport serac barriers. In 1998, Branco Ivanek, a Slovenian guide living in La Paz, and Marco Soria, a Bolivian guide, climbed the South Face Direct at D- (60°). Their route appears to lie to the right of the line reported here.]

– Alexander von Ungern, Andean Ascents, Bolivia