Jonathan Schaffer and I climbed a new route on the left side of the southeast face of Hainabrakk East Tower. We climbed ground-up, used no bolts or pins, and made two bivouacs: Heinous Broccoli Robbery (1,100m, 5.11+ A1).

We also climbed Eternal Flame on Trango Tower, as well as a 500m rock route on Uli Biaho Gallery,where most of the pitches had traces of human passagebut some were as fresh as a mountain breeze. In addi- tion, we attempted a long route on Great Trango Tower’s southern aspect, right of Assalam Alaikum (Cmarik-Kopold, 2005). It’s hard to say how far wegot. To our high point it was garbage, and the climbingabove appeared even worse. We also intended to try a line on Shipton Spire but discovered the glacier had been rendered impassable by climate change.

Big hugs to A.P., A.M., and D.A.—base camp besties with an endless supply of inspiration (and warm clothes). Higher Ground Expeditions smoothly saw us through all things in-country, and of course a big shout-out to Jonny Schaffer, who, forthose who don’t know, is the man.

– Pete Fasoldt, USA