In August, I was invited to join an expedition with Sean Canterbury, Mark Evans, Evan Johnson, Jared Leader, Shingo Ohkawa, Heath Rowland, Oli Shaw, and Greg Troutman—an unruly group of climbers from around the country—for two weeks of exploration in a seldom-visited nook of the Winds. A north- and east-facing cirque centers around Wolverine Peak (12,631’) and lies just south of the Wilson Creek Lakes, west of Washakie Park on the east side of the range. According to group research, very few parties have visited the area. The first, being none other than Fred Beckey and James Garrett, visited multiple times, along with several others, and completed a nine-pitch route on the east face of Point 12,612’ called the Illness (V 5.10 A3, AAJ 2000) and an 1,800’ 5.8 on the north ridge of Saddle Mountain.

I was behind the group’s schedule and navigated my way to base camp solo. The 10-mile hike was one of the more majestic approaches I can recall, as the landscape resembled something out of a Bob Ross painting, with an abundance of deep blue alpine lakes, wildflowers, and happy trees. By the time I arrived, two days after everyone else, the group had done recon, cached gear, and established two new routes on a formation they dubbed Susser’s Spire, a.k.a. Sucks To Be Second Tower.

The subsequent two weeks were filled with a bit of choss wrangling, some stellar rock climbing, and mediocre-at-best fishing. Rest days included plenty of whiskey, swimming, games, herbal assistance, and herbal assistance naps. The group as a whole managed 12 ground-up first ascents, all on traditional gear, on six of the eight major formations: Lightning Rod Spire, Mt. Wolverine, East Buttress, Susser’s Spire, Far East Buttress, and the Front Buttress.

In today’s age of many motivated climbers, it seems you have to travel further and further off the beaten path to access the unknown. That extra effort, however, makes the reward that much sweeter. The climbing, beautiful scenery, exceptional weather, and absence of crowds all made it seem too good to be true.

– Nick Rothenbush

Summary of Activity: Ride The Lightning (310m, 7 pitches, 5.8, Evans-Rothenbush-Troutman) on Lightning Rod Spire; Adamantium (380m, 8 pitches, 5,10-, Leader-Rowland) on Wolverine Peak; Initech (300m, 6 pitches, 5.10 C2, Evans-Rothenbush-Troutman) and Initrode (300m, 6 pitches, 5.11-, Evans-Rothenbush-Troutman) on East Buttress; Front Baggin’ (270m, 5 Pitches, 5.10-, Johnson-Leader-Rowland) and Peripheral Vision (250m, 4 Pitches, 5.10+, Canterbury-Shaw) on Far East Buttress; Crocodile Hunter (140m, 5 pitches, 5.10+, Evans-Rowland-Troutman), Umami (100m, 3 pitches, 5.11+, Canterbury-Shaw) and Fun Police (45m, 1 Pitch, 5.5, Canterbury-Ohkawa-Shaw) on Susser’s Spire; Eye of the Storm (120m, 3 pitches, 5.11, Evans-Troutman), Choose the Right (120m, 3 pitches, 5.9, Evans-Troutman) and Trundor and Bummus (110m, 3 pitches, 5.8+, Ohkawa-Rowland) on the Front Buttress.