American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Moskenesøya Island, Various New Routes

Norway, Lofoten

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Lindsay Griffin
  • Climb Year: 2016
  • Publication Year: 2018

Rob Lamey and Mike Rolf (U.K.) were active on Lofoten's westernmost island of Moskenesøya in 2016, putting up several new routes, including two on Merraflestinden.

On July 26 the two climbed Nonchalance (Norwegian 6) on the Reine Slab (Reinesvaet), above the road 10km north of Reine. This eight-pitch route starts up the first pitch of Sea Breeze (5, Enevold-Webster, 1991), then moves right, with the crux on a wide crack on pitch four.

South of the town of Ramberg is a popular summit called the Nubbin. The crag on its flanks receives afternoon sun, and on July 31 Lamey and Wolf climbed Ramberger (four pitches, 7), following the striking undercut flake that runs up the center of the wall. The rock is unusual and far superior than its appearance from the road would suggest, and the climb features great exposure. The hardest pitch (pitch two) involves a corner crack to a roof, then undercutting rightward.

The pair climbed their first route on Merraflestinden on the 28th. The eight-pitch Bilberry Meadow (7+) lies on the east face, right of the central area, and offers interesting pitches on excellent rock. The crux is a superb, technical, shallow groove protected by micro-wires—a test of nerve. The June 2017 Catalan route Syv Veggen (480m, 7+) climbs close to this route.

On August 4 the two returned to Merraflestinden to climb Indiana in the central area of the southeast face. The route follows the first four pitches of Borr i Bekkmortna (7- A0, Storvik-Tetlie, 2002) before moving right to follow an open groove. The crux ninth pitch of this 10-pitch route climbs a perfect hand crack in a smooth wall. The route rejoins Borr i Bekkmortna near the top. An independent start may be possible but was wet at the time.

The pair also made the probable second ascent of the top-quality Permit to Asgard (16 pitches, 7), left of One Hundred Years Later on Breiflogtinden.

– Lindsay Griffin, with information from Rob Lamey, U.K.

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