On July 1, Diana Wendt and I were dropped off at Tasermiut Fjord. Our first couple of weeks in the area were rainy, and patience was tested while waiting out storms in camp. We used brief spells of dry weather to climb the lower half of War and Poetry on Ulamertorssuaq, the Swiss Route on Ketil Pyramid (completed during an optimistic half-day window that found us summiting in a snowstorm), and two attempts on the British Route on Nalumasortoq. The weather then improved, allowing us to complete War and Poetry with two bivouacs.

The last four days of the trip were sunny—the longest window of fine weather we encountered in over 30 days. On July 28 we decided to attempt the unclimbed west face of RDVN (1,499m). The rock was chossy, with loose flakes and vegetation, but there were several clean 5.10 roofs and a perfect 5.11a corner. The leader made all the moves free but in a few places hung on gear to rest or clean the route; the second ascended the rope for speed. We placed natural anchors and used no bolts.

Nightfall arrived before we topped out, so we endured an uncomfortable bivouac on a narrow ledge, then continued at first light, joining the northwest ridge for the last three pitches to the knife-edge summit. [RDVN was first climbed in August 1975 via the northwest ridge (TD+ and sustained) by the French Pierre Chapoutot, Bernard Gorgeon, and Jeff Lemoine, approaching from the south.] We named the route Not My President (ca 600m, 18 pitches, 5.11a) in honor of the times and the poor rock that will probably keep this from becoming a classic. Nonetheless, we were excited and more than a little surprised to have put up our first new route. We rappelled the northwest ridge, first following an existing rappel line and then leaving our own anchors 70m apart. This expedition was supported by two AAC Live Your Dream grants.

– Ben Peters

Black Ball, First and Second Ascents: The American team encountered a few other parties in this area in July, generally repeating established routes. One of these comprised two Slovaks, who likely made the second ascent of Black Ball (400m, nine pitches, 6a+), a previously unreported route climbed on August 1, 2016, by the French Aurele Bremont, Benjamin Bouissou, Léa Dupery, Lucia Favard, Chloé Jaspers, Clothilde Morin, and Antony Ventura. This route ascends a black triangle of rock down and to the left of Nalumarsotoq; it follows a crack system that is clearly visible from the approach valley. Bolts were placed, but a selection of nuts is essential. A few days later in the French expedition, on a large boulder or pinnacle below Ulamertorssuaq, Bouissou opened the 15m Master and Commander (8b trad).