American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Coropuna Massif, Various Ascents

Peru, Cordillera Volcánica

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Marcelo​ Scanu
  • Climb Year: 2017
  • Publication Year: 2018

Coropuna (6,425m) is the highest volcano in Peru. Located approximately 150km northwest of Arequipa, it has six glaciated summits higher than 6,000m, and the massif covers 83 square kilometers. [See AAJ 2013 for more about Nevado Coropuna.]

Julieta Ferreri (Argentina) and Marcelo Motta Delvaux (Brazil) were active opening new routes on the massif during June and July, approaching their climbs from the northwest and northeast; the standard approach is from the southwest at Laguna Pallacocha.

From June 13–19, approaching from the northwest, the pair ascended the west summit, Nevado Pallacocha (6,171m), and the north summit, Coropuna Casulla (6,377m). They used four camps between 5,000m and 6,000m, and their northwest approach was new until 6,020m, where they switched to established routes—they climbed the south face of Nevado Pallacocha and the south and east ridges of Coropuna Casulla.

During July 2–8 the same pair ascended Coropuna Este (6,305m), entering by its northeast glacier and making four camps between 4,875–5,537m. The final part of their route up the northwest face is new.

– Marcelo Scanu, Argentina

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