American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Blåtinden, Nightwatch Pillar

Norway, Lyngen, Uløya Island

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Artur Paszczak
  • Climb Year: 2017
  • Publication Year: 2018

In September I sat in my house in Uløya through amazingly stable weather. Finally, I couldn't bear the pressure any more and set out to free solo the southeast pillar of Blåtinden (1,142m, 69°50'39.80"N, 20°36'37.28"E). I climbed the left flank of the 250m pillar in 45 minutes—most of the route was UIAA II and III, but there were three sections of IV+. This was the first route on the entire Blåtinden wall, which on its eastern aspect looks very serious. Although the rock has a strange, nearly black appearance, giving the impression it might be damp and slimy, in fact it is clean and very sound. My route, which I named Nightwatch Pillar, was absolutely solid from bottom to top—amazing for mountain terrain that has never been climbed.

– Artur Paszczak, Poland

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