Several years ago, Tom Ruddy climbed an independent, direct line up the striking west face of Moro Rock, with hopes of completing an all-free ascent in the future. After several years of work, he had freed most of the route but moved away before putting it all together. On April 4, Brian Prince and I completed the all-free ascent of Moro Rock’s most difficult full-length route, with each of the 10 pitches being redpointed ground-up in a day. Modern Guilt (1,000’, IV 5.12) features incredible climbing and is sustained in the 5.10 to 5.11 range. No pitch could be called a one-move wonder, as most of them keep you engaged from the beginning to end. The route is mostly bolt-protected, but a single set of cams and some small offset nuts will be needed. Bring your best edging skills and a cool head, and prepare for one of the most fun difficult routes in the state.

– Vitaliy Musiyenko