American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Tabuleiro, Para Temprano es Tarde

Brazil, Minas Gerais

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Marcelo Scanu
  • Climb Year: 2016
  • Publication Year: 2017

In July, Horacio Gratton (Argentina) teamed up with Lucas “Jah” Marques and Gustavo Fontes (Brazil) to climb a new route up Tabuleiro, a 400m wall in the state of Minas Gerais. Tabuleiro can be reached from the town of Conceicao do Mato Dentro; from there, it’s one hour of driving by dirt road and then a one-hour hike to the base. The wall is overhanging for 250m (at an average angle of 35°) and a waterfall runs down the center. Both Brazilian climbers knew the wall from a previous ascent of one the most difficult routes: Smoke on the Water (9 pitches, 8a+, Bean-Cuca, 2012).

To begin, they climbed the first two pitches of Smoke on the Water to reach a ledge, an excellent point for their camp. From that point upward, breaking left from Smoke on the Water, the overhanging climbing begins, leading through a big roof. It took two days to climb the first two pitches above their camp. The first one is believed to be 8b/8b+, and the second ascends a 30m near-horizontal roof, which they called the Pac Man Roof (8a), due to a rock with resemblance to Pac Man.

Above this, two more hard pitches—7c+/8a and 8b—lead to a 7a pitch connecting the new route into the final pitch of Smoke on the Water. A final short traverse allowed the team to finish at the point from where the waterfall begins. They called their variant Para Temprano es Tarde (400m, proposed 8b+). The route hasn’t been free climbed in its entirety.

– Marcelo Scanu, Argentina

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.

Photos and Topos Click photo to view full size and see caption