Pico Milluni, South Face of Unnamed Buttress, Amuki

Bolivia, Cordillera Real
Author: Alexander von Ungern. Climb Year: 2016. Publication Year: 2017.

On January 20, Sergio Condori and I deviated from the road leading to Zongo Pass a few meters after the police checkpoint, leaving the car as close as possible to the south side of Pico Milluni. After a one-hour approach, we geared up under a granite buttress that sits below the southwest face of Milluni, left of the main summit. We climbed five short pitches, each about 30m. The first three were damp and covered with moss in places, but the last two were clean and good quality, following an obvious crack we rated 6a.

We made one rappel on the far side, and as the rock looked so good we decided to climb back up the rappel line. This proved to be a very fine pitch of 6a+, with a short overhanging section. It was a nice way to finish our adventure before walking back to the car, first through loose scree and then a nasty boulder field. Sergio named the route Amuki, which means “mute” in Aymara, because the buttress we climbed remained silent the whole day, whereas there was very noisy rockfall down the rest of the southwest face.

Alexander von Ungern, Andean Ascents, Bolivia

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