Kang Yatze III, Northeast Ridge

India, Ladakh
Author: Martin Moran. Climb Year: 2015. Publication Year: 2016.

In August, William Newsom, Simon Ridout, and I made the probable first ascent of Kang Yatze III in central Ladakh. The expedition was hampered by heavy rain and flash floods in the Markha Valley, where many bridges were washed away. Base camp was made at 4,980m, about 1km below the normal base for Kang Yatze I and II. After acclimatizing with an ascent of Kang Yatze II, we trekked up the glacier beyond Kang Yatze I to make camp at 5,700m in the upper cirque between Dzo Jongo, the unnamed 6,300m peak at the valley head, and Kang Yatze III. On the 10th we climbed steep, loose scree slopes and shattered ribs to gain the ridge crest between Kang Yatze III and I at 6,110m. This terrain would be rather more pleasant with a covering of spring snow. A beautiful, curving snow arête—the northeast ridge of the mountain—then led to the summit tower. The final rocks were steep, loose shale, and the top tower was climbed on the right side (6,310m GPS, AD UIAA III).

Martin Moran, Alpine Club, U.K.

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