American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Nevado Churup, Southwest Face, La Divina Providencia

Peru, Cordillera Blanca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Tomas Franchini
  • Climb Year: 2015
  • Publication Year: 2016

On June 2, my brother Silvestro Franchini and I climbed a route on the rocky right side of the southwest face of Nevado Churup (5,495m, a.k.a. Tsurup), directly in line with the peak’s west shoulder and right of the typical snow/ ice route on the south face. The approach took one hour from camp at Laguna Churup (ca 4,550m), with 75° slopes to reach the wall. It took us nine hours to climb to the top of the wall and west shoulder. There was good rock in the lower part and rotten rock up top. We abseiled down the southwest face’s most commonly used descent route (Fear-Lahr-Malotoux-Ridgeway, AAJ 1973), which had rock anchors in place. We called our route La Divina Providencia (650m, M7 80°).

Tomas Franchini, Italy

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