American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Pico Milluni, South Summit, East Face, GCP

Bolivia, Cordillera Real

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Gregg Beisly
  • Climb Year: 2015
  • Publication Year: 2017

On September 21, 2015, Grover Rene Mamani, Sergio Dalenz Quispe, and I added another route to the east face of Milluni’s south summit. This was a four-pitch rock route to the left of my own route the Black Condor (AAJ 2015), climbed with my son Aedan in 2014. The newer route has been named GCP (5c). We descended via the north ridge to the col before the higher Milluni peaks.

The south summit of Milluni has two distinct peaks; the lower, pointy, and more southerly one sports a large cairn, whereas the higher is not as sharp. The traverse, via an ascent of the southeast ridge (4) and descent of the north ridge, is a fun outing. The foot of the face can be reached in around one hour from Casa Blanca, and routes lie between 5,100 and 5,300m.

Gregg Beisly, New Zealand

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