The eastern aspect of Pico Milluni (5,500m) features rather nice rock, and the following routes, all of which end on one of Milluni's summits, are likely new.

In May my wife, Sal, and I climbed the main summit by the central, northeast-facing buttress. The first three pitches finish on a small tower, which we downclimbed easily on the far side; we then scrambled up 50m to where three more fantastic pitches led directly to the summit. The crux (5c) was the first pitch of the route. From the top, we rappelled to the start of the final three pitches, then descended south to scree slopes.

Later in the month, and on the higher of the south peaks, my son Aedan and I put up a quality four-pitch route at 5a. The first pitch had a tricky start in a corner; the rest proved easier but airy. Aedan called it the Black Condor, because near the top we were buzzed several times by one of these enormous birds.

On the lower of the two south peaks, Jesus Churata and I climbed a direct five-pitch line to the summit, which Jesus named Ruta de los Vikingos (6a+) after his unit in the Bolivian Navy. The upper three pitches, above a scree terrace, are particularly fun and exposed.

In January 2012, in the middle of the wet season, Sal and I climbed the northeast face to the left of the central buttress mentioned above. We climbed a long snow slope followed by mixed climbing to reach Milluni's middle summit, immediately south of the main top (AD-). Conditions were typical for the time of year: wet snow and mist. On top we found a bolt and peg, placed by local guide Sergio Condori to help while guiding clients to the main summit via the east ridge.

Gregg Beisly, Bolivia