On October 14, Steffen Krug and I returned to the beautiful limestone area of Taghia Gorge. The year before, we were very unlucky and got stuck in extremely bad weather for three weeks, with heavy rain, snow, and even ice—very unusual in this area. Because of the bad free climbing conditions we used aid to put up a new route on the southeast pillar of Jebel Taoujdad. We were sure it was going to become a great free line under better circumstances.

Starting on October 15, we enjoyed 10 days of great weather and repointed the route. The climb goes up some of the best limestone on one of the most impressive summits in Taghia, between the West Pillar and Au Nom de la Réforme. It is almost entirely bolted, but there are some distances between the bolts. The final two pitches require traditional protection. We call it Into The Blue (513m, 7c). There is obligatory 7a climbing, and the pitches are as follows: 7a, 7a+, 7b+, 6b+, 4a, 7c, 6b+, 6c, 6b+, 6c, 3, 5c, 5b.

[Editor’s note: Jebel Taoujdad contains at least three other long routes, in addition to shorter routes: Au Nom de la Réforme (340m, 6c),Fata Morgana (500m, 15 pitches, 7c), and Les Rivières Pourpres (545m, 7b+). Search the AAJ website for more info on these three routes.]

– Jens Richter, Germany