Jati Khollu, South Face, Gully Route Variant

Bolivia, Cordillera Real, Hampaturi Group
Author: Derek Buckle. Climb Year: 2015. Publication Year: 2016.

After a visit to the Kasiri region, Nick Berry, John da Silva, and I traveled via Palcoma to Laguna Jachcha Khasiri (4,710m), where we established a base camp. On June 19, leaving without a map in significant mist and with little idea where to head, we climbed unroped up the left side of the south face of Jati Khollu (5,421m) by what we now know to be a variant of Gully Route (400m, AD, Beisly-Clarke–Meehan, AAJ 2014). The major difference was that we kept left of the original line to exit left of a rock tower, which we traversed beneath to reach the final summit block of unconsolidated rock. With the mist clearing as we climbed the ultimate few meters, we had tremendous views of Illimani, Mururata, and many other peaks. The route was AD and we descended the same way.

Derek Buckle, Alpine Club, U.K.